Ice screws for mountaineering

Ice drill

— a screw "ice screw" for ice is inserted into dense ice to create a protection point or build a belay station directly on the icefall. A good ice screw enters the ice quickly, has sharp teeth, a convenient eye for a carabiner, and is suitable in length for various conditions, because thin ice and "wet" ice require different approaches. Compared to similar ice protection options, an ice screw is usually faster and more predictable than old-style ice pitons, but it is critically dependent on the quality of the ice: loose, bubbly, or "sugary" ice may hold much worse, even if done carefully. Examples include placing an intermediate ice screw on a climb, assembling an anchor from two ice screws for rappelling, and setting up a point for pulling a partner out of a crevasse on a glacier.