Movement type
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Quartz. A mechanism based on an electronic quartz oscillator. Such a generator produces a strictly defined number of pulses per second, and on the basis of this data, the clock keeps time. In common parlance, only clocks with hands are called “quartz”, but the same principle applies to “electronic” models (with a digital display). Anyway, the main advantage of quartz movements is high accuracy — even in inexpensive models it is about ± 15 sec / month, and in the most advanced it can reach ± 0.3 sec / month. And these watches are much cheaper than mechanical ones. The main disadvantage of "quartz" is the need for power supply; and although a miniature battery usually lasts for several months, it still has to be changed periodically. In part, this moment is compensated by the use of solar panels and automatic winding systems (see "Source of movement").
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Mechanical. A traditional type of watch movement that uses a compressed spring as the power source. One of the advantages of such watches over quartz ones is that they do not require a battery — it is enough to wind the spring regularly, which can easily be made into a habit; and in the presence of automatic winding (see the relevant paragraph), the matter is even more simplified. "Mechanics" is noticeably more expensive than "quartz", although this may be a virtue that emphasizes the level of the watch and the status of its owner. But the unequivoc
...al disadvantage of this option is the relatively low accuracy: if in quartz watches the error is measured in seconds per month, then in mechanical watches it is already about seconds per day. So, it is worth paying attention to this option either to fundamental connoisseurs of the classics, or to those who, by the nature of their activity, it is important to have a watch that does not depend on batteries (travelers, sailors, military, etc.).Self-winding
A device primarily used in mechanical watches that provides continuous winding of the watch by moving the wearer's hand. Most often, it is made in the form of a rather massive plate in the form of a sector, which is fixed with a narrow end on an axis in the centre of the mechanism. When the hand and the watch attached to it oscillate — for example, while walking — the plate rotates, providing a spring winding.
One of the advantages
of self-winding watches is obvious: they do not need to be wound as often as classic mechanical ones, and if worn constantly, they can do without manual winding at all. The course of such watches is more uniform, since the spring is constantly in an almost compressed state — this has a positive effect on accuracy. Also
, automatic winding in mechanical watches is useful for waterproof models, in which the crown is attached to the thread during non-working hours, sealing the case — since the thread does not have to be used often, it wears out less, which has a positive effect on reliability. On the other hand, the self-winding plate increases the weight and thickness of the case, as well as the cost of the watch. In addition, the use of this function in miniature female models is associated with a number of difficulties, and if the owner leads a sedentary lifestyle (for example, due to old age), all the advantages of self-winding come to naught.
Note that there a
...re also self-winding quartz watches — these are models with Kinetic technology. For more information about them, see "The source of the move."Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Second hand
The watch has a separate
second hand. Note that the location and features of the operation of such an arrow may be different. So, in some watches it is installed on the same axis with the rest of the hands, in others a
separate small dial is provided for counting seconds. On some models, the second hand is part of the chronograph (see Features/Features) and only moves when the chronograph is on.
Accuracy
The accuracy of the rate is usually determined by the largest error — the deviation from the reference time, which can occur in a month when the watch is constantly running in normal mode. Accordingly, the smaller the number in this paragraph, the more accurate the clock. In addition, the accuracy of the movement is a kind of status indicator: if the error exceeds the values stated in the characteristics, this may indicate a malfunction in the mechanism.
If the accuracy indicators are the same both in advance and in lag, one number is indicated in the characteristics — for example, 30 sec / month (i.e. +/-30 sec / month); however, many mechanisms have unequal deviations, for example -15/+25 sec/month. Also note that this parameter is relevant only for quartz watches (see “Movement type”): in mechanical models, the accuracy of the rate is noticeably lower, it is measured in seconds not per month, but per day.
Power source
The power source of a quartz watch (see "Movement type") — in other words, the type of power source used in it.
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Battery. A miniature battery, usually in the form of a characteristic "pill"; used exclusively in quartz watches (see "Movement type"). The main disadvantage of this option can be called the need for replacement when the charge is exhausted; at the same time, almost all replaceable elements of miniature standard sizes used in wristwatches are produced only in the format of disposable batteries, without the possibility of recharging. On the other hand, they provide a long time of work, are inexpensive and are sold almost everywhere.
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Solar battery. Power supply system consisting of a photocell and a built-in battery. The photocell generates electricity when exposed to bright light, and the battery stores this energy and feeds the watch mechanism. The convenience of such models lies in the fact that with the regular presence of solar (or at least bright artificial) light, the owner does not have to worry about the energy reserve. On the other hand, the photocell significantly affects the price, and if you constantly stay indoors or wear clothes with sleeves that cover your watch, it becomes practically useless. Therefore, this option has not received wide popularity, and it is worth paying attention to such models primarily because they are regularly and a lot outdoors and/or in
...bright daylight.
— Autoquartz movement (“kinetic”). A kind of automatic winding (see above), used in quartz watches. This technology was originally released by Seiko under the name "Kinetic", but nowadays it can be found in other manufacturers. Anyway, such systems work similarly to mechanical self-winding — transforming the energy from the movement of the user's hand into the energy necessary for the operation of the mechanism. However, in this case, such a mechanism does not start the spring, but rotates a miniature generator that generates electricity. The resulting charge is stored in a special capacitor and used to operate the quartz movement. Models with such mechanisms are positioned as "quartz watches in which you do not need to change the battery", and in general it is so. At the same time, they have the same limitations as conventional self-winding devices — in particular, with a sedentary lifestyle, this technology is practically useless. Yes, these watches are quite expensive.Power reserve indicatior
An indicator showing how long the watch can run without winding, changing the battery, recharging, etc. It is found in models with any type of mechanism (see the relevant paragraph). Although the
power reserve indicator is quite approximate, it still makes it easier to monitor the status of the device and reduces the risk of being left without a working watch at the wrong time.
Note that the End Of Life function (see below) in this case is not considered a power reserve indicator, although its role is generally similar.
Dial type
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Arrow. A classic-looking dial with divisions to indicate the time and at least two hands — hour and minute — moving in a circle. This option limits the ability to display additional information and any additional function significantly complicates the design, but this classic allows you to make watches in any design, which is so appreciated.
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Digital. As the name implies, the time in such a watch is displayed by numbers, while the role of the dial itself is played by a liquid crystal screen. It is this type of watch that is commonly called "electronic". LCD screens are much more convenient for displaying additional information than arrow dials, they provide more options (for example, a stopwatch can easily count tenths and even hundredths of a second).
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Mixed. An option that combines both of the above types. Usually it is an arrow dial, supplemented by a small LCD screen. Thus, in one model, the advantages of both types of dials are combined — the visibility of the arrows and the versatility of the screen. Watches of this type can only be quartz.
— LED. In fact, it is a variation of the digital dials described above, in which LED screens are used instead of LCD matrices. The key feature of such watches is that they are, by definition, backlit — in the sense that the image itself glows. In addition, the colour of the image may vary, and many o
...f these models have a bright and unusual appearance. On the other hand, such dials consume more energy than traditional liquid crystal ones, which consequently affects battery life. In some models, this moment is partly offset by the fact that the screen does not work all the time, but turns on for a few seconds at the touch of a button; however, this also creates certain inconveniences — in order to find out the time, you have to make extra movements.
— Disk. A rather unusual type of dials based on the use of rotating disks with numbers printed on them. There are virtually no arrows in the disk dials, their role is played by special windows in which the readings of a particular disk are displayed. Such watches differ in their original appearance, but in terms of convenience they are still somewhat inferior to traditional watch models (especially since the second hand — or rather, the disk — is usually not provided for in their design). Thus, this option has not received much distribution.Dial colour
Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.
The most popular in modern watches are
black,
white,
silver and
blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular,
beige,
yellow,
green,
golden,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
grey and
purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).
Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.