Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Dial colour
Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.
The most popular in modern watches are
black,
white,
silver and
blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular,
beige,
yellow,
green,
golden,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
grey and
purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).
Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.
Case shape
The shape of the watch case; most often the dial has the same shape, but there are exceptions (for example, a rectangular display in a round case).
This parameter practically does not affect the functionality, so the choice in this case is related solely to how convenient and pleasant-looking one or another option is for you. Also, shape data can be useful if the watch is chosen as a fashion accessory that plays a well-defined role in the image being created. As for specific options,
round cases are the most common nowadays — they are easy to manufacture, look neat and fit almost any style of watch.
Rectangular watches are also quite popular, they can also belong to different styles; however, such cases are more bulky than round cases, and therefore are used less frequently.
The square shape is actually a variation of the rectangular shape.
Oval is considered to be suitable primarily for women's watches, although there are also single men's models with such cases. There are other types of cases —
polygonal,
barrel-shaped, as well as products in non-standard
design.
Case material
— Brass. Inexpensive material used mainly in watches of the corresponding price category. The composition is an alloy based on copper and zinc. Brass bodies have a pleasant golden colour, but their resistance to corrosion is usually very low. Because of this, such watches darken very quickly, and oxides can stain the wearer's skin and even lead to irritation. To correct the situation, various protective coatings, stainless steel covers, etc. can be used; however, even these measures are not able to completely eliminate this drawback.
—
Stainless steel. Inexpensive and at the same time very practical material found in watches of all price categories. "Stainless steel" looks good, perfectly resists corrosion and scratches, retains its presentation for a long time and does not cause allergies. However it has a rather large weight, but for many users, the massiveness of the watch is an advantage, not a disadvantage.
—
Titan. Premium material used in watches of the corresponding price level. Titanium alloys combine lightness and high strength, in addition, they are less thermally conductive than steel, due to which they do not “cool” the hand. They are practically not subject to corrosion, do not require protective coatings and are hypoallergenic. On the other hand, such cases are quite sensitive to scratches.
—
Plastic. Common features of all types o
...f plastic are ease of processing, relatively low cost, low weight, hypoallergenicity, moisture resistance and poor thermal conductivity. For a number of reasons, this material is considered optimal primarily for sports watches, including “diving” (waterproof) watches. At the same time, it should be noted that many types of plastic are used in modern watches, including high-strength varieties that are not inferior in reliability to steel. Therefore, this material is found in all price categories, from low-cost to top; The quality of the case is usually directly related to the cost of the watch.
— Aluminium. "Watch metal", considered a little more advanced than stainless steel. The aluminium alloy is also durable, resistant to corrosion and scratches, and has a solid appearance. At the same time, on the one hand, it is noticeably lighter, on the other hand, it is more expensive.
— Copper. By itself, copper has a pleasant reddish-brown tint, but it does not tolerate prolonged contact with the skin — the surface begins to oxidize, which leads not only to skin contamination, but also to irritation. Therefore, this material is usually used in combination with protective coatings. In fact, it has no advantages over the same "stainless steel", and therefore it is used quite rarely — and not so much for practical or even aesthetic reasons, but in order to distinguish watches from other models.
— Carbon. Composite material, in fact, is high-quality plastic: carbon fiber strands filled with polymer filler. Carbon is notable for its combination of low weight with very high strength; in general, it surpasses even steel in reliability; at the same time, it has many advantages of plastic, such as moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity. The disadvantage of such housings, in addition to high cost, is sensitivity to point impacts.
— Ceramics. Ceramics are various materials obtained by sintering and firing at high temperatures. Watch cases are usually made of high-quality ceramics, which are distinguished by their solid appearance and very high scratch resistance, and they cost accordingly. At the same time, they are quite sensitive to shocks, so a ceramic case is often combined with a stainless steel or other metal back cover.
— Gold. The case is made of jeweler's gold or has a gold-plated finish. Note that the colour of such a case can be different: in addition to the classic yellow, there are also white and red gold. Anyway, such watches are very expensive, and look accordingly; they are designed mainly for those who need not so much a device for determining the time as a rich fashion accessory.
— Silver. Although cases made of silver jewelry are much cheaper than gold ones, this material still belongs to the status ones, and is used not so much for practical reasons, but as a symbol of the high cost of watches and the wealth of their owner. However, for a number of reasons, silver has not received much popularity in watches.
— Wolfram. Tungsten alloys are not cheap, but they are very strong and reliable, and also look stylish. Another feature of this material is its very high melting point; from the practical point of view, this point is not significant, but it is important as a fashion detail, emphasizing the high reliability of tungsten. At the same time, for a number of reasons, such alloys are not widely used in watches.
— Bronze. Quite a rare and specific option, used similarly to copper — in order to give the watch a stylish look. The basis of bronze, in fact, is copper, and tin is most often added to this alloy, but other components can also be used. Accordingly, the colour of such material can be different — yellowish, reddish, brown.Colour
The main colour of the watch case.
Modern watches are quite diverse in colour options. The most widespread models are in shades of "
stainless steel ",
golden and
black ; however, in addition to this, on the market you can find, in particular,
white,
yellow,
green,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue and
purple cases.
In general, the colour of the case is a fairly obvious parameter; Let's note only some of the nuances associated with marking:
— Multi-coloured models include models in which there is no clearly defined primary colour. If there is such a colour, it is indicated in the characteristics. And for two-tone cases, an additional colour can be specified, for example, "stainless steel
with gold " or "black
with blue "
— Silver, among other things, are plastic cases without additional coloring.
— "Stainless steel" in this case is a colour, not a material; other metals (e.g. alumin
...ium and titanium) that are not complemented by PVD coating (see “Case Coating”) may have this shade. And the cases of gold watches, in turn, are not necessarily made of gold — red and white gold are also used in jewelry.
— Camouflage coloring is indicated separately — such watches are designated as "military", and here, again, the main shade of the coloring is given. However, not every military model has camouflage on the body; see below for details.Strap
The material from which the bracelet/watch strap is made. Note that the division into bracelets and straps is rather arbitrary, the basis for it is precisely the material. In modern watches, there may be such options:
—
Nylon strap. Nylon is a synthetic material that has a characteristic structure in the form of interwoven threads in watch straps. In most cases, these threads are quite large, due to which the nylon straps are similar in appearance and texture to the ties of tourist backpacks; this option is typical for sports watches. However, there is another variety — finely woven nylon, which is used mainly in women's watches (see "Gender"). Of the practical properties of this material, it is worth noting, first of all, unpretentiousness and resistance to water, including salty; in addition, it can be given almost any colour, and the combination of multi-coloured fibers allows you to create original and bright straps.
—
Rubber strap. In this case, rubbers mean elastic materials that, in terms of properties, are a cross between plastic and rubber. Rubber is denser, harder and stronger than rubber, while noticeably softer and more flexible than plastic, which allows it to be used for watch straps. Of the advantages of this option, it is worth noting, first of all, high wear resistance and moisture resistance, which, combined with the appearance features, makes these straps a good option f
...or watches in a sporty design. But among the classic models, rubber is usually used in inexpensive watches and has rather modest characteristics.
— Leather strap. Genuine leather straps are typical for quite expensive watches: this material is expensive, while it has a solid and rich appearance. In addition, it is notable for its high strength, moisture resistance and durability. Of the shortcomings of the skin, in addition to the price, it is worth noting a certain tendency to scratches, as well as increased care requirements — otherwise the product may lose its “presentation”.
— Leatherette strap. As the name suggests, leatherettes were created as an alternative to real leather. Their main advantage is a relatively low price: being practically indistinguishable from a leather bracelet, such a bracelet will cost much less. On the other hand, this material is less durable, wears out rather quickly and is generally not so reliable. Note that today different types of leather substitutes are used, and the quality of this material usually directly depends on its price.
— Steel bracelet. The watch bracelet consists of links connected to each other; in this case they are made of stainless steel. This material is strong, durable, practically not subject to corrosion, moreover, it has a solid appearance and is quite pleasant to the touch; at the same time, the cost of steel allows it to be used even in inexpensive watches. Such bracelets are quite “heavy”, however, some owners consider this moment to be a virtue, because. it gives a feeling of solidity and reliability. And of any significant shortcomings of steel, one can only note high thermal conductivity — the bracelet will noticeably “cool” the hand if the watch has lain in the cold for some time (though not for long — just a few minutes).
— Milanese bracelet. Milanese are called metal bracelets made of links of very fine weaving (about 1 mm in size, or even less). The material of such a bracelet may be different; most often it is steel, but more expensive metals are also found. Anyway, such a bracelet has an original appearance, and also provides good air access, allowing the skin to breathe. Among the shortcomings of Milan, it can be noted that the links can “bite” the hair on the arm, creating discomfort. Thus, and also to keep the cost down, some watches do not use Milanese weave on the entire bracelet, but only on part of it (usually it is about half of the entire bracelet).
— Titanium bracelet. Bracelets made of titanium alloy are much stronger than steel, with less weight. They also conduct heat less well, making them better suited for cold weather. At the same time, titanium is characterized by almost all the same advantages: high strength and reliability, solid appearance, resistance to corrosion. Its main disadvantage is the high price, due to which this type of bracelet is found mainly in premium watches.
— Gold bracelet. Jewelery gold bracelets are mainly used with cases made of the same material (see the relevant paragraph). A watch with a gold bracelet is not so much a device for measuring time as a status accessory, or even a piece of jewelry; the latter is especially characteristic of female models.
— Silver bracelet. Silver bracelets are found exclusively in watches with cases made of the same material. Like the gold described above, this material is used not so much for practical as for fashion reasons — in order to give the watch a rich appearance and emphasize the status of its owner. At the same time, for a number of reasons, silver bracelets are extremely rare.
— Ceramic bracelet. A premium material found predominantly in women's watches (although there are also men's models with ceramic bracelets). Ceramic not only looks good, but also retains its original appearance for a long time — thanks to its excellent resistance to scratches, dirt and stains. In addition, this material has a relatively small weight; and the high cost in this case is more of a virtue — it emphasizes the high level of watches. Among the shortcomings of ceramic bracelets, some fragility can be noted — a strong blow can split the links.
— Plastic bracelet. This category includes both the actual bracelets, woven from individual links, and straps made of flexible plastic. The second variety is similar to rubber straps, see the relevant paragraph for more details. As for the bracelets, they are usually combined with cases made of similar materials (plastic or carbon), and can be used in different categories of watches — both relatively inexpensive and quite advanced. The quality of plastic in this case, usually, is directly related to the price category of the device.
— Tungsten bracelet. Bracelets made of tungsten alloy are highly durable and reliable; these properties are further emphasized by the fact that tungsten has a very high melting point. And yes, it does look good. At the same time, it does not have key advantages over other premium alloys (titanium, see above) and is noticeably more expensive due to the complexity of production. As a result, such bracelets are extremely rare, mainly in combination with cases made of the same material (see "Case Material").
— Aluminium bracelet. Quite a rare option, found in single watch models. Bracelets made of aluminium are lighter than steel, they are not inferior to them in terms of strength and reliability, however, they are more expensive.Strap colour
The main colour of the watch strap/bracelet.
The most popular shades nowadays are
stainless steel(the colour of most metal bracelets, not necessarily steel ones),
golden(bracelets made of gold and "gold"),
black(strap made of different materials, including rubber and nylon, as well as separate bracelets) and
brown(mostly leather straps). Other colour options include
beige,
white,
yellow,
green, camouflage (
military style),
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue, and
purple.
In addition, some models of watches are equipped with two-tone straps. Most often,
white,
gold and
black are used as secondary colours, and this colour is specified after the main one — for example, “blue with white” or “stainless steel with gold”. If this paragraph lists several colours separated by commas — for example, "black, red, blue" — this means
...that the watch is either sold in several versions that differ in the colour of the strap, or comes with several interchangeable straps / bracelets of the corresponding colours at once. This nuance should be clarified separately.Diameter (width)
The nominal size of a watch case in diameter (for round cases) or width (for other options, see "Case Shape"). In the most miniature modern models, this size is
21 – 25 mm or even
less, among the largest there are cases of
46 – 50 mm and even
larger.
Larger watches are more convenient in the sense that the dial readings are better visible on them, and it is easier to provide various additional functions in the design. On the other hand, small watches look neater and create less discomfort directly when worn. In addition, female models (see "Gender") are traditionally made more miniature than male ones. So the choice for this indicator depends mainly on the intended specifics of the application: for example, large cases are best suited for outdoor activities and tourism, about
41 – 45 mm in size, for household wear (regardless of gender) — about
31 – 35 mm, and as an accessory to an evening dress, a small watch of
30 mm or less would be more appropriate.
Also note that the size of a compatible strap/bracelet is associated with this indicator — see "Strap Width" for details.
Thickness
The thickness of the watch case. A fairly obvious parameter; we only note that nowadays it is customary to attribute watches with a thickness of less than 7 mm to
ultra-thin models. This design has both aesthetic and quite practical meaning — a thin watch will be useful for those who wear narrow sleeves with tight-fitting cuffs.