Comparison Yamaha FG800 vs Yamaha C40

General type of tool.

First of all, it is worth noting that the name “acoustic guitar” in our time can be used both in a broad sense (to denote a whole class of instruments) and in a narrow sense (to denote one of the types of such instruments). Acoustic guitars in the broad sense of the word also include classical and electro-acoustic models, as well as more specific instruments - acoustic bass guitars and ukuleles. Here is a detailed description of each of these varieties.

— Acoustic. Speaking about the types of guitars, “acoustic” refers to relatively modern models that differ in design from the “classics” (see below). In terms of capabilities, the main features of such instruments are the ability to use metal strings, as well as a generally louder and more sonorous sound. Externally, acoustic guitars (in the narrow sense of the word) are distinguished primarily by a relatively narrow and long neck, as well as a slightly different bridge design than classical ones; in addition, most models also have a larger body, the shape of which can be very diverse (see “Shape (type)”). This type of guitar can be used for different playing styles; in this sense it is more versatile than classic models.

- Classic. Instruments created on the basis of traditional Spanish guitars back in...the 19th century and surviving to this day almost unchanged. The classical guitar has a fairly wide neck, as well as a characteristic body shape; this shape is actually a standard, so different models are very similar in outline and differ in appearance mainly in color and the presence/absence of a cutout (see “Cutaway”). The main functional feature of such instruments is the inability to work with metal strings - on the “classics” you can only use nylon. Due to this, such guitars sound very soft and relatively quiet, and as a result, they are poorly suited for aggressive, dynamic chord playing. Therefore, the main purpose of such instruments is classical compositions. Also, this type of guitar is well suited for initial music learning: nylon strings do not cut your fingertips as much as metal ones.

— Electroacoustic. Acoustic guitars, complemented by built-in pickups and, as a rule, tone blocks (see below for both). This allows you not only to use the guitar in a traditional, acoustic format, but also to connect it to an amplifier or other equipment, incl. to add additional effects to the sound using “gadgets”.

- Ukulele. An instrument also known as the "ukulele". Outwardly it is really very similar to a guitar, but it is much smaller in size. There are usually 4 strings on such an instrument; there are other options - 8 (4 double) or 6, as on a regular guitar (“guitalele”), such models are also included in this category. The ukulele became widespread in the Pacific Islands and from the very beginning was associated with Hawaiian traditional music, but this does not stop there: almost the same possibilities are available for such instruments as for ordinary acoustic guitars.

- Bass. Guitars with a low, bass sound. The classical bass has 4 strings in EADG tuning - similar to the third through sixth strings of a six-string guitar, but an octave lower; The strings themselves, accordingly, are also much thicker. Five-string models are less common; they have a similar tuning principle (see “Number of strings”). Externally, many basses stand out with long and narrow necks, although this is not strictly necessary. A special case is the fretless bass: such an instrument does not have saddles on the neck, which expands the possibilities for using various specific sound production techniques, but requires special precision when placing the fingers. In any case, the main use of bass is rhythmic accompaniment, most often in combination with drums; For solo parts, such an instrument is practically not used. Also note that acoustic basses are usually supplemented with pickups - similar to the electro-acoustic guitars described above: it is very difficult to sound such an instrument in another way (with an external microphone).

General shape of the guitar body.

This characteristic affects both the appearance and dimensions of the instrument, as well as the characteristics of its sound. Note that for classical guitars (see “Type”) the shape is often not indicated, since it is standard for such instruments. But other varieties can be very diverse in outline. For example, among “acoustics” and “electroacoustics” there are such form options as dreadnought (western), jumbo, mini-jumbo, parlor, orchestral, grand auditorium, grand concert, road, resonator. Ukuleles, in turn, are available in soprano, concert, tenor, baritone and bass versions, as well as in the form of a special variety - guitarle. Here is a more detailed description of all these types of housing:

— Dreadnought (western). One of the most popular types of acoustic guitars. The body has a large shape and very “heavy”, angular outlines. The terms "dreadnought" and "western" are often used interchangeably, but sometimes only cutaway guitars are referred to as "westerns" (see below). This body shape provides a pronounced bass sound and a “rumbling” sound color, making dreadnoughts well suited for playing chords, but performing solos on such guitars is no...t very convenient.

— Orchestral model. Orchestra Models are somewhat reminiscent in shape of the dreadnoughts described above, but have more rounded and graceful outlines, in particular, a more pronounced “waist” in the area of the rosette (resonator hole). This allows you to achieve an even distribution of volume between the upper and lower frequencies. In terms of application, “orchestration” is the direct opposite of westerns: they are excellent for playing by fingerpicking and note-by-note, but on chords they sound noticeably weaker - both due to the lack of bass (especially with an aggressive playing style) and due to the relatively low volume. On the other hand, thanks to the uniform frequency response, an orchestral guitar can be picked up with a regular microphone even at a professional concert.

- Jumbo. The word Jumbo means “large”, and these cases are indeed quite large in dimensions. Another distinctive feature is the shape of the lower part of the soundboard: it can be almost round, and in any case, the contours of the jumbo body are usually smoother than those of orchestral models and especially dreadnoughts (although there are exceptions). Moreover, this type of body combines the features of the mentioned varieties: a balanced and smooth sound, characteristic of “orchestration”, is combined with the volume of “Western”. Because of this, jumbo guitars are generally considered the best option for mixed-style players. However, a lot depends on the specific model: some are closer in application to dreadnoughts, and sometimes the difference between a jumbo and a western lies only in how the manufacturer positions its instrument.

- Mini jumbo. A slightly smaller version of the jumbo (see above), with correspondingly lower volume and sound richness.

- Grand Auditorium. Another versatile type of guitar. It is similar in outline to a jumbo (see above) - to the point that the terms “grand auditorium” and “jumbo” (or “mini jumbo”, depending on the dimensions) are often used interchangeably.

- Grand concert. An analogue of the Grand Auditorium described above, somewhat smaller in dimensions.

- Parlor. Cases of this type are distinguished by fairly compact dimensions - some of them are close in dimensions to a ukulele - and, most often, quite small in width, but while maintaining a full-dimensions socket. Such instruments were initially popular in the late 19th and first half of the 20th centuries; Today they are valued by professionals both for their traditional sound with “historical notes” and for their ease of transportation.

- Road. In accordance with the name, such cases are created with ease of transportation in mind. They can have either a traditional shape, close to a dreadnought or jumbo (only smaller), or very specific shapes (for example, triangular or oval, like a medieval lute).

- Resonator. Six-string guitars, also known as “Dobro” (from the name Dobro, given by the creators and later becoming a trademark). In accordance with the name, to amplify the sound, such instruments use not just a hollow body, but a special part - a resonator. This element is installed under the top deck and covered with a characteristic round metal lid with slots; the lower threshold is placed directly on the lid. “Dobro” is distinguished by a rather loud and sharp sound; In addition, some models have a special neck design that makes it easier to play using a slide. In general, such guitars have a rather narrow niche of application; they are popular primarily among blues and country/bluegrass performers.

- Soprano. The smallest type of ukulele (see “Type”), it is also historically the first and most widespread. The standard overall length of such an instrument is 21" (53 cm) with a 13" scale length (see below). Soprano models have the most high-frequency emphasis of any ukulele, and are typically tuned using GCEA (heaviest to thinnest) tuning.

- Concert. The ukulele is slightly larger in dimensions than the sopranos described above - 23" in length and 15" in scale. They provide a slightly higher volume of low frequencies, but otherwise are completely similar.

- Tenor. Further, after the concert version, the ukulele increases in dimensions - up to 26" in total length (17" in scale). In addition, they differ in tuning: they can be tuned in both GCEA and DGBE (similar to the first 4 strings of a 6-string guitar).

- Baritone. Until relatively recently (before the advent of bass-type bodies), such instruments were the largest variety of ukulele. The standard overall length for a baritone is 30", scale length is 19"; Such an instrument is usually tuned in DGBE tuning (similar to the first through fourth strings of a 6-string guitar).

- Bass. One of the newest varieties of ukulele: launched for sale only in 2007. It is almost the same in dimensions as a baritone - length is about 30", scale length is 20" - however, it uses a different tuning, namely EADG (also an analogue of a six-string guitar, in this case corresponding to strings from the fourth to the sixth).

- Gitalele. A kind of “hybrid” between a traditional guitar and a ukulele. In fact, such instruments are six-string guitars, made in the dimensions of a ukulele and tuned 2.5 tones higher - ADGCEA tuning. At the same time, the fingering, chord placement technique and tuning procedure in the guitarel do not differ from ordinary guitars. Such instruments are also called “six-string ukuleles,” but this name can also be applied to classic 4-string ukuleles, where the second and third strings are doubled. So, to avoid confusion, it is better to still use the term “gitalele”.

A special protective pad that protects the soundboard from accidental contact with the pick.

The pickguard is usually located at the sound hole below the strings (if the guitar is considered in the standard playing position). With a dynamic, aggressive performance (especially when playing chords), it is in this place that the pick clamped in the hand most often hits; hitting an unprotected body causes damage to the surface of the body, which degrades the appearance and acoustic characteristics of the guitar. Pickguard prevents such damage: such an overlay is usually made of a hard material that is resistant to contact with most picks. Accordingly, the presence of this part is highly recommended if you plan to use the pick extensively when playing.

Note that the protective overlay usually differs in colour from the main material of the deck, due to which it is clearly visible.

Guitar body construction, including both soundboards and sides. For these parts, two main types of wood can be used: solid (solid) and puff (better known as plywood). Plywood is cheaper than solid wood, but loses to it in terms of acoustic properties. Therefore, the type of deck in the characteristics is usually indicated only if solid wood is present in it. However, if data on the deck is not given, this does not mean that the instrument is made entirely of plywood; in addition, it is worth noting that some types of plywood come close to solid wood in terms of acoustic properties. Therefore, without having information on the deck design, it makes sense to focus primarily on the price category of the instrument.

Options for a solid tree can be as follows:

— One piece top. The English name is also used — solid top. We are talking about instruments in which only the upper deck is made of solid wood — the rest of the body is made of plywood. This option is a good compromise between sound quality and affordable price, it is quite popular in mid-range guitars.

— Completely whole. A body in which all parts are made of solid wood — both decks and sides. This is the most advanced option in terms of acoustics — especially since some types of wood even improve over time (provided that it is solid wood). However, a completely one-piece body is quite expensive, so this option is found...mainly in high-end professional instruments.

The material from which the lower soundboard of the guitar is made is a flat surface on the opposite side from the upper soundboard (it is this surface that is adjacent to the musician's body when the instrument is held normally).

The value of this parameter is described in detail in the “Upper deck” section — what is stated there is also true in this case. We only note that a wider range of materials is used for the lower deck: this part is less demanding on the characteristics of the material, which gives manufacturers additional choice.

In terms of specific materials, rosewood, sapele, maple, meranti and nato, among others, enjoy considerable popularity in modern times. Here is a brief description of each of them:

— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.

— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.

— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is...not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.

— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.

— Nato. A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.

The material from which the side of the guitar is made is the “side” surface of the body, which unites the upper and lower soundboards (see above).

About the meaning of the material of the body, see paragraph "Top deck" — everything stated in it is also true for the shell. Unless the range of materials used for this part is noticeably wider; also note that most often the material of the shell coincides with the material of the bottom deck. Here is a summary of some of the more popular options:

— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.

— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.

— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.

— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.

— Nato.... A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.

The number of frets provided on the neck of the guitar.

The fret is the gap between the two nut on the fretboard. By pressing a finger on the string in this gap, the guitarist changes the pitch of the string: the farther the fret (from the headstock) — the shorter the string is and the higher the sound.

The more frets, the more notes the guitarist can take on each string and the more possibilities the instrument gives. On the other hand, for numerous frets, a fretboard of the appropriate length is needed, which affects the dimensions and cost of the instrument, and sometimes it is simply not justified: for example, ordinary guitars have at least 18 or 20 frets, while among ukuleles (see "Type ”), there are models for 12 – 16 frets.

In general, it makes sense to specifically look for an instrument with numerous frets if you plan to play complex solo parts on it; for playing chords, as well as relatively simple performance by notes, the number of frets does not play a special role.

The type of truss provided in the guitar neck design.

The truss rod is a long metal rod located inside the neck of the guitar (along it). It is designed to provide the desired stiffness and prevent neck distortion due to string tension. This function is relevant for models that use metal strings — primarily acoustic ones (see "Type"); Nylon guitars don't need an anchor.

Often it is possible to adjust the tension force of the anchor — to change the degree of deflection of the neck. This can be useful both for adjusting to the guitarist's preferences and for correcting neck distortion that develops over time.

Note that the lack of information on the anchor does not mean the absence of the latter: some manufacturers simply do not bother to mention it in the basic data on the tool. So in such cases, you can try to find more detailed information on the selected model.

Specific options for the anchor can be as follows:

— Single. An anchor in the form of a single rod is the simplest and most inexpensive option. At the same time, the strength and rigidity of such a rod is sufficient in most cases.

— Double. Twin anchor, consisting of two rods. A pair of rods provides increased strength and reliability compared to a single truss rod, and also provides additional protection against lateral deformations of the fingerboard (deviations to the right / left). At the same time, a double anchor is not cheap, despite the fact...that the described advantages are really important only in professional music, where even the slightest deviations from the reference sound are unacceptable. Therefore, the double anchor is found mainly in premium tools.

— Is absent. The complete absence of an anchor in the design of the neck. Despite the useful properties of this part, its use is far from always justified: for example, the neck can be made of durable and elastic materials that “work” well without additional reinforcement. Another reason for the one-piece construction is that mounting a metal rod disrupts the neck's uniformity and can degrade the instrument's acoustic performance, which can be critical on high-end models. Note that the absence of an anchor is separately indicated only for acoustic guitars and other instruments with metal strings; in "nylon" models, rods are not used by definition, and there is no need to specifically specify its absence.

Scale length of the guitar. The scale in this case is the working part of the string, in other words, the distance from the saddle (on the headstock) to the saddle (on the bridge). In most acoustic and similar guitars, the scale is set during production and is unchanged. Without going into technical details, we can say that the value of this parameter is generally a reference: it allows you to some extent estimate the overall dimensions of the instrument, as well as the size of the frets (the longer the scale, the larger the size of the frets, regardless of their number). However, there is also a practical application: with an adjustable anchor (see above), the scale length data can be useful in the tuning process.