Comparison Garmin Fenix 5X Plus vs Garmin Fenix 5 Plus Sapphire

— Built-in player. The presence of a player in the smartwatch allows you to use the gadget to listen to music. There is no need to connect to the phone for this. The songs will play directly from the watch. Therefore, these devices must necessarily have an impressive (as for a watch) amount of storage and be able to connect to headphones (for connection with headphones).

— Light sensor. A sensor that monitors the brightness of ambient light. One of the most popular ways to use this feature is to auto-adjust the brightness of the display: in bright light, it increases so that the image remains visible, and at dusk it decreases, which reduces eye strain and energy consumption. In addition, other more specific features may be provided — for example, turning on the screen when pulling back the sleeve of clothing.

— WiFi. A technology originally used to access the Internet via wireless access points, but more recently also used for direct communication between two devices (such a connection has several advantages over traditional Bluetooth). In wearable gadgets, the first option is most often provided, although the second is also found. However, the specific uses of Wi-Fi may be different depending on the device: accessing websites and various Internet services, remote communication with smart home systems, remote control of digital cameras and other electr...onics, transmission of the GPS- coordinates via Internet (in children's beacons), etc.

— NFC. Wireless communication technology over short distances (up to 10 cm). The methods of its application, including in wearable devices, may be different. One of the more popular options is using contactless payment (see below); however, the presence of such a function does not hurt to verify separately. Another common feature is the simplification of Bluetooth connection with a smartphone or tablet that also has NFC: instead of manual configuration, it is enough to bring one device to another — and they will automatically establish a connection, all that remains is to confirm it. Other ways of interaction may also be possible, for example, launching a “sports” application on a smartphone when bringing a fitness tracker to it. And theoretically, more specific options for using NFC are also allowed — for example, as a travel pass, ID, etc. Actually, in many models of wearable gadgets, the set of these methods is limited only by installed applications.

— Contactless payment. The possibility of using a wearable gadget for contactless payment. This feature is found only in models with NFC (see above); it actually turns the device into an analogue of a credit card with a chip and allows you to pay without taking the card out of your wallet — just bring your hand with the gadget to the terminal reader. This provides not only additional convenience, but also security. So, bringing the watch to the terminal is definitely easier than reaching into your pocket or purse for a credit card — especially if your hands are busy shopping. And instead of a traditional card, from which an attacker can copy basic details such as a number, CVV code and expiration date (for example, by “peeping” them with the built-in camera), a gadget is used that transmits this data in encrypted form and does not display it explicitly anywhere.
To use contactless payment, usually, you need to synchronize your gadget with your smartphone and set up such payment in the Google Pay or Apple Pay system. But to make payments, a smartphone is no longer required — many wearable devices are able to perform this feature completely autonomously (although this possibility still needs to be specified separately).

— Accelerometer. A sensor that determines the direction of gravity, as well as the accelerations acting on the device. This allows you to track two parameters at once: the current position in space and various physical influences (like tapping or shaking). Most often, the accelerometer is responsible for two main features: automatic rotation of the image on the screen, as well as the operation of the pedometer (in fact, the presence of such a sensor is almost guaranteed to mean the presence of a pedometer, see "Possible measurements"). However, there are other ways to use this sensor — for example, rejecting an incoming call when shaking the watch, turning on the screen when tapping on it, etc.

— Gyroscope. A device that allows you to track the turns of the gadget in one direction or another. Typically used in conjunction with an accelerometer. The gyroscope improves the accuracy of positioning in space (which has a positive effect on the quality of the pedometer and other similar functions), and also provides additional options for managing gestures. However, the specific applications of this sensor are highly dependent on the model.

— Camera. The watch/bracelet has its own built-in camera; its location and purpose differs from model to model. In some devices, the lens is located on the front panel, above the screen, and the matter is limited only to video communication and taking selfies, while others allow you to shoot “classic” photos or videos. At the same time, it is worth noting that anyway, the specs of such cameras are usually very limited — for example, the resolution rarely exceeds 2 megapixels, and autofocus is provided only in the most advanced models.

— Flashlight. Built-in flashlight — usually in the form of a small LED mounted directly in the case. Usually, it has a relatively modest brightness, but it can still be useful for simple tasks like lighting your path at night, lighting in a garage or basement, etc.

The time that the gadget can work on one battery charge (or the supplied battery) in normal use.

Normal mode, as a rule, means working with a relatively low load. At this time, the display can display some data, and basic functions can also work (counting steps, periodically checking heart rate, etc.), but in any case, power consumption is low. Therefore, the operating time in normal mode can be quite impressive, up to several weeks, or even months. However, when choosing, it doesn’t hurt to also pay attention to the stated time in active mode (see below) — especially if a long operating time is critical, or you plan to use the gadget intensively. The actual autonomy of the device will most likely be somewhere in between these two values, depending on the actual load. If only the time in normal mode is indicated for the gadget, you should choose with a certain reserve.

The time that the gadget is able to work on one charge of the battery in the active mode of use.

For watch-phones (see “Type”), this usually means a talk mode, for other gadgets, an intensive work mode when numerous features and sensors are used and there is a constant exchange of data with a smartphone/tablet. However, the specific understanding of the "active mode" for different manufacturers may vary: some indicate the time at maximum performance (that is, in fact, guaranteed battery life), others — in some kind of "average mode". However, anyway, this is a fairly clear parameter that describes the battery life of a particular model quite well (and is much closer to real indicators than the time in normal mode mentioned above).

Note that for models with a GPS sensor (see "Navigation"), the specifications may additionally specify the time of active operation using such a sensor. See "Operating time (GPS)" for details.

The time that the gadget is able to work on one charge of the battery (or supplied battery) when using a GPS sensor.

This parameter is specified mainly for high-end tourist watches designed for experienced travelers, military, rescuers, divers, pilots, etc. Such devices use advanced GPS receivers, which themselves can consume quite a significant amount of energy; in addition, the operation of the receiver is inevitably accompanied by the use of other features — transferring navigation data to another device (usually via Bluetooth), working with its own built-in maps, etc. Therefore, the battery life while using GPS turns out to be rather modest — it can be significantly less time in active and even less in normal mode (for both, see above).

We also remind that the battery life mentioned in specs is approximate — in fact it may differ (in one direction or another, depending on the use scenario). Nevertheless, it is quite possible to evaluate the actual capabilities of the watch and compare them with each other: the difference in the claimed battery life usually proportionally corresponds to the difference in practical battery life.

The type of clasp used on a gadget's strap or bracelet.

The most common types of clasps today are the classic buckle, folding clip, folding lock, magnet, snap fastener, and Hook-and-loop. If several options are indicated in the specs at once, it means that the gadget is supplied or can be supplied with different strap options using different types of fasteners. Here is a detailed description of each type:

– Classic (with buckle). Clasp resembling a belt buckle; originally used in traditional wristwatches, but nowadays it has become widespread in smart gadgets. On one half of such a fastener there is a U-shaped or similar frame with a special pin, on the second — a row of holes. When fastening, the second half is threaded through the frame, and the pin is fixed in one of the holes. At the same time, by choosing a particular hole, you can adjust the size of the strap. In addition, the advantages of the classics are reliability, neat appearance and compatibility with many strap materials (with the exception of metal bracelets).

— Clip (unfolding). An option for metal bracelets. The most widespread type of clip, consisting of two curved plates connected by an axis. When unfastened, they open like a book, increasing the overall length of the bracelet and allowing you to easily r...emove the watch from your hand, and when fastened, they fold close to each other and are fixed, securing the bracelet on your wrist. Another, less popular variety is the “butterfly”, which has two flaps that, when opened, rise like wings. In general, the clips are very easy to use, but difficult to set up. They fasten and unfasten with literally one click, but it’s impossible to reconfigure the size of a bracelet with a clip “on the go” — you have to disconnect and reconnect special latches, which requires an additional tool and some skill.

— Magnetic. A fastener in which a strong permanent magnet plays the role of a latch. Such devices are simple and convenient both in use and in adjustment: for fastening and unfastening, it is enough to “stick” or “unstick” a magnet, and size adjustment is carried out right at the time of fastening — by tightening the strap to the desired length. The main disadvantage of such a clasp is that it can only be used with metal bracelets made of magnetic alloys — for example, steel.

— With lock. A clasp that resembles the buckle described above, but has a slightly different principle of operation. On one side of the strap with such a clasp there is a latch pin, on the other side there is a loop of a D-shaped or other shape, as well as a number of holes. When fastening, the side with the pin is threaded into the loop and then fixed in one of the holes; By choosing one or another hole, you can adjust the length of the strap. This design is especially suitable for rubber straps, it is simpler and at the same time more reliable than the buckle, which can also be used with such straps.

— Hook-and-loop. Classic hook-and-loop closure, used exclusively with fabric straps. Like magnetic clasps (see above), such clasps allow you to very accurately adjust the length of the strap right in the process of fastening. Among the disadvantages of Hook-and-loop, in addition to restrictions on the materials of the strap, it is worth noting the tendency to reduce reliability as it wears out. Therefore, nowadays, this type of fastener is quite rare, and is almost never used as the only one available — usually Hook-and-loop is supplemented with another option, for example, a latch.

— Folding lock. Clasp in the form of a detachable lock, the halves of which are on different halves of the bracelet. It is used with finely woven metal bracelets, the so-called "Milanese" ones; at the same time, one half is fixed motionless, and the second can move along its part of the bracelet — in this way the length is adjusted. A tool may be required for adjustment, but the procedure itself is simple — much easier than with clips. And the low prevalence of folding locks is mainly due to the fact that Milanese bracelets are rarely found in smart wearable gadgets.

The width of the stock watch strap or bracelet is implied. Usually, in each specific model taken, this value is limited by the size of the standard lugs. A wider strap than the lugs allow cannot be installed. But the strap of a smaller width is quite possible to use. Of course, you need to take into account that an overly thin strap with a large diameter watch will not look quite harmonious. Most often, the width of the strap is directly related to the diameter of the dial. As a standard, the width is calculated using the formula: ½ x D, where D is the diameter of the dial. That is, if the dial diameter is 40 mm, then the perfect strap width in this case is 20 mm.

Wrist coverage suitable for the included watch strap. Usually, the length of the strap can be adjusted, so this paragraph usually indicates not one number, but a range — for example, "130 – 200" (millimetres). If there are several straps in the kit, then several ranges are indicated in the specs, if necessary, with a clarification like “fabric: 115 – 185, metal: 130 – 220” (if the straps are made of different materials).

We emphasize that in this case we are talking not just about the length of the strap, but about the girth of the wrist, for which it is designed. Thus, by measuring your hand in an appropriate way, you can accurately determine whether a particular strap is suitable for a particular person or not. This possibility is especially important if the watch is bought for a user with a non-standard hand size — miniature or, conversely, very large.

The level of dust and water protection according to the IP standard, which the gadget corresponds to.

This parameter is usually denoted by the letters IP followed by two characters ( IP55, IP56, IP57, IP65, IP66, IP67, IP68, IP69) — for example, IP68. The numbers indicate the specific degree of protection: the first — dust resistance, the second — water resistance. Instead of one of the numbers, there may be the letter X ( IPX5, IPX7, IPX8) — this means there is no certification for this indicator: for example, an IPX7 device has a moisture resistance of 7, but has not been tested for dust protection. However, a high degree of protection against water automatically means good dust resistance.

Here are the levels of dust protection (first digit) found in modern wearable gadgets:

5 — dust resistance. Some dust may get inside, but it does not affect the operation of the device. There is no point in specifying lower levels, as they do not provide protection against dust.
6 — full dustproof (dust ingress is completely excluded).

The second digit describes the r...esistance to moisture, here the options can be as follows:

4 — resistance to water splashes from any direction. It is considered the minimum level of water protection, which makes sense to indicate in the specs: in particular, it allows you to endure exposure to rain without consequences.
5 — resistance to water jets from any direction. This level allows you to endure heavy rain and makes it possible to at least calmly wash your hands without removing the gadget.
6 — protection against strong water jets and impacts of sea waves. It is undesirable to completely submerge such a gadget under water, but it can be used even in a strong storm and not removed during the shower.
7 — the possibility of short-term immersion under water to a shallow depth (up to 1 m), without constant operation in immersed mode. With such a device, usually, you can even swim — but for a very short time (several minutes) and without diving. However, it is worth noting that not every gadget with this level of protection normally tolerates water jets (that is, compliance with level 7 does not necessarily mean compliance with lower levels 5 and 6).
8 — the possibility of a long (more than 30 minutes) stay under water at a great depth (more than 1 m), using in submerged mode. The specific limit of depth and time may be different, it should be specified separately; there are both gadgets with basic capabilities that allow you to dive a couple of metres, and diving models with an allowable depth of several tens of metres. Similar to level 7, water jet resistance is not guaranteed in this case.
9 - the possibility of almost unlimited time spent under water when diving to a certain depth, using the device in submerged mode. Level 9 also guarantees resistance to hot water under strong pressure - wrist gadgets with this level of dust and moisture protection can withstand high-temperature water jets under pressure.

In most cases, the weight of the watch body itself is indicated as the weight of the model, since the strap is removable and can be replaced with another one. However, there are also models when the weight is presented with an included strap. Anyway, if the manufacturer indicates a specific method of measuring weight (with or without a strap), we add this information.