Country of origin
The country of origin of the brand under which this watch brand is produced. Usually, the headquarters of the manufacturer is located in the same country. But production facilities may be located in another country, or even in several countries. Most of the brands under which modern watches are produced come from the following countries (in alphabetical order):
Austria,
England,
Germany,
Denmark,
Spain,
Italy,
Korea,
Russia,
USA,
France,
Switzerland,
Japan.
Note that in the modern world, the quality of a product is very weakly related to its country of origin (both claimed and actual). Much more it depends on how carefully one or another manufacturer controls the quality in their production. So when choosing, it makes sense to focus not so much on “nationality” as on the overall reputation of a particular brand.
Movement type
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Quartz. A mechanism based on an electronic quartz oscillator. Such a generator produces a strictly defined number of pulses per second, and on the basis of this data, the clock keeps time. In common parlance, only clocks with hands are called “quartz”, but the same principle applies to “electronic” models (with a digital display). Anyway, the main advantage of quartz movements is high accuracy — even in inexpensive models it is about ± 15 sec / month, and in the most advanced it can reach ± 0.3 sec / month. And these watches are much cheaper than mechanical ones. The main disadvantage of "quartz" is the need for power supply; and although a miniature battery usually lasts for several months, it still has to be changed periodically. In part, this moment is compensated by the use of solar panels and automatic winding systems (see "Source of movement").
—
Mechanical. A traditional type of watch movement that uses a compressed spring as the power source. One of the advantages of such watches over quartz ones is that they do not require a battery — it is enough to wind the spring regularly, which can easily be made into a habit; and in the presence of automatic winding (see the relevant paragraph), the matter is even more simplified. "Mechanics" is noticeably more expensive than "quartz", although this may be a virtue that emphasizes the level of the watch and the status of its owner. But the unequivoc
...al disadvantage of this option is the relatively low accuracy: if in quartz watches the error is measured in seconds per month, then in mechanical watches it is already about seconds per day. So, it is worth paying attention to this option either to fundamental connoisseurs of the classics, or to those who, by the nature of their activity, it is important to have a watch that does not depend on batteries (travelers, sailors, military, etc.).Self-winding
A device primarily used in mechanical watches that provides continuous winding of the watch by moving the wearer's hand. Most often, it is made in the form of a rather massive plate in the form of a sector, which is fixed with a narrow end on an axis in the centre of the mechanism. When the hand and the watch attached to it oscillate — for example, while walking — the plate rotates, providing a spring winding.
One of the advantages
of self-winding watches is obvious: they do not need to be wound as often as classic mechanical ones, and if worn constantly, they can do without manual winding at all. The course of such watches is more uniform, since the spring is constantly in an almost compressed state — this has a positive effect on accuracy. Also
, automatic winding in mechanical watches is useful for waterproof models, in which the crown is attached to the thread during non-working hours, sealing the case — since the thread does not have to be used often, it wears out less, which has a positive effect on reliability. On the other hand, the self-winding plate increases the weight and thickness of the case, as well as the cost of the watch. In addition, the use of this function in miniature female models is associated with a number of difficulties, and if the owner leads a sedentary lifestyle (for example, due to old age), all the advantages of self-winding come to naught.
Note that there a
...re also self-winding quartz watches — these are models with Kinetic technology. For more information about them, see "The source of the move."Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Power source
The power source of a quartz watch (see "Movement type") — in other words, the type of power source used in it.
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Battery. A miniature battery, usually in the form of a characteristic "pill"; used exclusively in quartz watches (see "Movement type"). The main disadvantage of this option can be called the need for replacement when the charge is exhausted; at the same time, almost all replaceable elements of miniature standard sizes used in wristwatches are produced only in the format of disposable batteries, without the possibility of recharging. On the other hand, they provide a long time of work, are inexpensive and are sold almost everywhere.
—
Solar battery. Power supply system consisting of a photocell and a built-in battery. The photocell generates electricity when exposed to bright light, and the battery stores this energy and feeds the watch mechanism. The convenience of such models lies in the fact that with the regular presence of solar (or at least bright artificial) light, the owner does not have to worry about the energy reserve. On the other hand, the photocell significantly affects the price, and if you constantly stay indoors or wear clothes with sleeves that cover your watch, it becomes practically useless. Therefore, this option has not received wide popularity, and it is worth paying attention to such models primarily because they are regularly and a lot outdoors and/or in
...bright daylight.
— Autoquartz movement (“kinetic”). A kind of automatic winding (see above), used in quartz watches. This technology was originally released by Seiko under the name "Kinetic", but nowadays it can be found in other manufacturers. Anyway, such systems work similarly to mechanical self-winding — transforming the energy from the movement of the user's hand into the energy necessary for the operation of the mechanism. However, in this case, such a mechanism does not start the spring, but rotates a miniature generator that generates electricity. The resulting charge is stored in a special capacitor and used to operate the quartz movement. Models with such mechanisms are positioned as "quartz watches in which you do not need to change the battery", and in general it is so. At the same time, they have the same limitations as conventional self-winding devices — in particular, with a sedentary lifestyle, this technology is practically useless. Yes, these watches are quite expensive.EOL (End of Life)
A function found in quartz watches (see "Movement type") with an arrow dial. In fact,
End Of Life is an indicator that signals a critically low battery. It works as follows: when the charge is running out, the second hand begins to “jump” immediately through 2 or 4 divisions, moving not once a second, but once every 2 or 4 seconds, respectively. Such a warning is clearly visible to the user, and the slow movement of the arrow additionally saves battery power, increasing the time to find and replace the battery.
Dial colour
Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.
The most popular in modern watches are
black,
white,
silver and
blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular,
beige,
yellow,
green,
golden,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
grey and
purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).
Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.
Backlight
How to illuminate the clock face.
—
Luminescent coating. A variant used in pointer dials: the hands, and sometimes the scale, are coated with a “phosphorus” coating that glows in the dark. This method of backlighting is inexpensive and can be used even in low-cost models; in addition, it does not require batteries and is suitable even for mechanical watches. On the other hand, coverage is often not as effective as it should be. The fact is that for work it must be “charged” from the sun or another bright light source, and this “charge” is enough for an average of 5-6 hours, and already in the first couple of hours the brightness of the glow drops noticeably.
— Electronic.
Illumination based on LEDs or other miniature light sources. Usually, it does not work constantly, but turns on and off by pressing a special button; the exception is LED dials (see "Dial Type"). The main advantage of electronic backlighting is efficiency: it is guaranteed to be enough to view the image on the dial. In addition, such systems do not depend on external illumination, in contrast to the luminescent coatings described above. On the other hand, the lighting requires a battery to operate; therefore, this type of illumination is found exclusively in quartz watches (see “Mechanism type”).
— Luminescent coating / electronic. Systems that combine both types of illumination described above. This option is f
...ound mainly among models with combined dials: the hands are coated with a luminous coating, and the electronic backlight is intended mainly for displays and additional scales (and also as a backup option for the hands). The combined backlight is very convenient, however, such watches are somewhat more expensive.
— Tritium illumination. Illumination option found on premium pointer dials. Miniature flasks filled with tritium, a radioactive form of hydrogen, are responsible for the illumination in such models; from the inside, the surface of such flasks is covered with a phosphor, which glows under the influence of tritium radiation. Separately, we note that this radiation does not pose a danger to humans: it does not go beyond the bulb, and even inside its intensity is extremely low. Tritium illumination is expensive, but it is extremely convenient from a practical point of view: "flashlights" work constantly, without batteries and regardless of external lighting, and shine significantly brighter than a conventional luminescent coating. However due to the decay of tritium, they gradually lose their brightness, but this happens very slowly: it takes 12 years to reduce by half, and at least 20 years for the backlight to become useless.Colour
The main colour of the watch case.
Modern watches are quite diverse in colour options. The most widespread models are in shades of "
stainless steel ",
golden and
black ; however, in addition to this, on the market you can find, in particular,
white,
yellow,
green,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue and
purple cases.
In general, the colour of the case is a fairly obvious parameter; Let's note only some of the nuances associated with marking:
— Multi-coloured models include models in which there is no clearly defined primary colour. If there is such a colour, it is indicated in the characteristics. And for two-tone cases, an additional colour can be specified, for example, "stainless steel
with gold " or "black
with blue "
— Silver, among other things, are plastic cases without additional coloring.
— "Stainless steel" in this case is a colour, not a material; other metals (e.g. alumin
...ium and titanium) that are not complemented by PVD coating (see “Case Coating”) may have this shade. And the cases of gold watches, in turn, are not necessarily made of gold — red and white gold are also used in jewelry.
— Camouflage coloring is indicated separately — such watches are designated as "military", and here, again, the main shade of the coloring is given. However, not every military model has camouflage on the body; see below for details.