Comparison ABUS Ionus 6800/110 vs ABUS 540/160HB230

The type describes the design and general principle of the bike lock.

First of all, we note that even castles belonging to different types have some common features. So, the thicker the lock, the more reliable it is usually; however, the overall reliability depends not only on the resistance to biting, sawing, etc., but also on the resistance to opening with the help of master keys. That is why high-quality bike locks are not cheap: they use not only strong materials, but also complex constipation, opening of which without a key is an extremely difficult task. However, at the same time, the high cost itself is not a guarantee of quality and insurance against defects in the design, therefore, when choosing, it will not be superfluous to read the reviews and reviews.

Specific types can be:

— Rope. The most famous and common type of bicycle locks: a metal, usually steel, rubber-sheathed cable (for corrosion protection), at one end of which is the lock itself. However, there are also models without their own constipation, with hinges for hinged constipation (see "Lock view"). Anyway, when closing, such a design closes into a loop, with which you can “tie” the bicycle to a bicycle stand support, a tree, a bench, etc. The main advantages of cable locks are convenience and versatility. The flexible cable provides plenty of mounting options, it has enough space even in rather cra...mped conditions (for example, between closely spaced fence bars), but the length is usually sufficient to fasten the frame and the rear wheel at the same time (and in some models also the front wheel in addition ). At the same time, in the “travelling” position, the lock can be compactly rolled up, it weighs a little, and among the additional equipment, mounting under the saddle, on the steering wheel, etc. can be provided. But the reliability and safety of such models is average at best: the cable bites relatively easily, especially if its thickness is small. Therefore, as the main anti-theft tool, they are recommended to be used only in areas with a low level of bicycle theft, and even in this case, it is desirable that the cable diameter be as large as possible (ideally at least 15 mm).

— Chain. The design of such locks is similar to the cable locks described above, however, in accordance with the name, they use a chain instead of a cable (often in a case that protects the frame from scratches). Theoretically, this can provide a fairly high reliability, but in fact this point depends on the overall quality of the lock. So, high-end models with a thick carbide chain and a strong lock are really suitable even for areas with a high level of bike theft, but an inexpensive thin chain bites almost as easily as a cable. At the same time, chain locks weigh much more than cable locks. Therefore, it makes sense to pay for this variety only if the issue of protection against theft is particularly acute; in simpler situations, you can get by with a lighter and more compact cable lock.

— Armored. In fact, it is a variation of the cable locks described above, characterized by a reinforced structure. Additional strength and protection against biting in such locks is provided by a metal "shell" — a shell of individual scales that encases the cable. Of course, such protection is also not absolute; however, with the same thickness, armored locks are much more reliable than conventional cable locks.

— U-lock. A device similar in design to a conventional door lock: its basis is a U-shaped shackle (hence the name), the ends of which are fixed in the locking mechanism. This type of lock is considered by many cyclists to be the most reliable, and with good reason: it is very difficult to bite or saw through the shackle even in an inexpensive model, and in high-quality products made of hardened steel, such a task becomes even more difficult. At the same time, U-locks are not very convenient in practical use: the lock turns out to be bulky and heavy, it is not particularly convenient to transport. And the small size of the shackle limits the choice of parking spaces: thick trees, poles, etc., on which a cable or chain would have hooked without problems, are unsuitable for U-lock.

— U-lock + cable. A U-lock lock (see above), supplemented with a cable — usually with loops that allow you to put it on the lock shackles. This combination allows you to combine the advantages and partly compensate for the disadvantages of both types. For example, if there are no “seats” in the area for a full-fledged fastening of the U-lock, the lock can be used as a regular cable lock, and if there is such a place, you can fasten the bike to two locks at once (U-lock to the frame, cable to the frame and wheels) . On the other hand, such a lock turns out to be even heavier, bulkier and more expensive than its individual components.

— Segment. About the principle of operation, such locks are similar to cable and chain locks (see above). However, the loop fastening the bicycle is not made of a cable or links, but of oblong metal plates fastened with swivel joints into a “snake”. In the stowed position, the plates are folded into a compact pack, so that such a lock takes up even less space than a cable lock. This is perhaps the main advantage of segment models; at the same time, they are superior to cable ones in terms of reliability (of course, with proper workmanship). On the other hand, the segmental design is highly limited in mobility, because plates are laid out only in one plane; in addition, the hinges tend to loosen and weaken as they wear, which does not contribute to increased strength.

— On the wheel. Also known as O-locks because they are shaped like a ring (or the letter O). Such a “ring”, if necessary, is put on the wheel (ideally, on the rear, inside the rear triangle of the frame) and works on the principle of a blocker, preventing the wheel from rotating. Thus, it is impossible to leave the bike without removing the lock. At the same time, it is worth remembering that O-lock will not prevent an attacker from moving the bike — for example, loading it into the boot of a car or simply dragging it away. Therefore, such devices are recommended to be used only as auxiliary ones; here also note that a lock worn over the shield can make it much more difficult to steal the wheel (especially if the shield is non-removable).

— Disc brake. A lock put on a bicycle brake disc — usually with a pin threaded into one of the holes on the disc. According to the principle of operation and general features, it is similar to the lock on the wheel described above: it does not allow you to leave on a bicycle, but does not interfere with taking it away. At the same time, the advantage of a disk lock, compared to O-lock, can be called compactness: such devices are miniature in size and usually fit without problems even in a small pocket. On the other hand, for obvious reasons, they are useless on bikes that do not have disc brakes.

— Mounted. Classic padlocks, similar in design to those used for locking rooms. By design, they are completely similar to the U-locks described above, in fact, they are their reduced version. Due to their small size, they are not suitable for the role of full-fledged anti-theft devices: with such a lock, at best, it will be possible to fasten the wheel spokes to the frame, which is useful only as the most hopeless measure. But by combining the attachment with a cable or chain, you can assemble a full-fledged lock of the appropriate type (see above). Moreover, this option makes it possible to choose the details at your discretion, and the result may be cheaper and at the same time more reliable than serial bike locks. Also, such a product can be useful for replacing a complete padlock (see "Lock type").

The level of protection of the lock according to the standards of the manufacturer. The higher the number, the more reliable the model is. However, note that the levels of protection of different brands are not compatible with each other and it is appropriate to compare locks according to this indicator only within the same brand.

The length of the cable (or chain, in models of the corresponding type — see above), provided for in the design of the lock.

The longer the cable / chain, the more places will be available for fastening the bike and the easier it will be to lock other parts besides the frame (primarily the wheels). The most modest indicators in modern bicycle locks are about 500 – 600 mm — these are the simplest models, including for children's bikes. In general, a cable lock with a length of less than 1000 mm is considered short, up to 1500 mm — medium, and in the most advanced models this figure can reach 2500 – 3000 mm. But heavier chain locks are made, respectively, shorter, among them a figure of 1500 mm or more is already considered advanced. Well, anyway, it is worth remembering that the reverse side of a large length is an increase in weight and dimensions in the folded position.

The thickness of the cable used in the construction of the lock of the corresponding type (see above). However, this parameter can also be given for chain locks — in this case we are talking about the thickness of the wire from which the chain links are riveted.

In general, the thicker the cable / chain, the more difficult it is to bite / saw through the bike lock and the more reliable it will be. So, in the case of cable locks, it is believed that a thickness of up to 10 mm provides protection against theft “on a jerk” rather than against instrumental damage, and ideally, the cable should be no thinner than 15 mm. With chains, the situation is somewhat different. On the one hand, solid wire is much more resistant to damage — all the more so since it is far from always possible to unbend a link sawn in one place, and to completely saw the chain, the wire must be cut twice. On the other hand, a large thickness has a much more noticeable effect on the dimensions and weight of bike locks (which is already rather big compared to cable locks). Therefore, even in the most advanced chain models, this figure does not exceed 10 mm.

It is also worth remembering that, in addition to thickness, the reliability of the lock is also affected by the materials (alloys) used in its construction.

Dimensions of the shackle in a U-lock or padlock (see "Type").

In the first case, only two parameters are usually indicated — width and length (height), most often in that order, but sometimes vice versa. However, it is not difficult to determine where what size is — the length is longer, this is due to the purpose of the lock. It usually varies from 130 – 140 to 300 mm, width — from 80 to 115 – 120 mm. A larger shackle gives more options for attaching the bike (it will “get” further and be able to cover a larger object), however, the lock also turns out to be bulky and heavy. Shackle thickness for U-locks is listed separately (see below).

But in padlocks, all three sizes are usually called, including the thickness. Here, the width and length most often differ slightly, by a couple of millimetres, although there are exceptions, with an elongated bow. Anyway, this parameter is not as important for such locks as for U-locks: firstly, hinged models are miniature by definition, and secondly, the difference in size is not particularly critical for their main purpose (shackles 20x20 and 30x30 mm are the same effectively fasten the ends of the "average" cable or chain).

The thickness of the shackle in a U-lock (see "Type").

The thicker the brace, the more difficult it is to saw through/bite, the more the lock makes it harder to steal the bike. The downside of this reliability is an increase in size and weight, and quite noticeable literally with every additional millimetre. Therefore, in most modern U-locks, the staple thickness is from 12 to 14 mm — this is considered the optimal compromise between strength and lightness.

Note that staples of the same thickness can be made from different materials, and the composition of the metal also affects reliability. Usually, the quality of the material also directly depends on the price category.