Comparison Swiss Military Hanowa 06-7296.12.005 vs TISSOT T033.210.11.053.00

Official mark used for watches made in Switzerland.

Switzerland is actually the "world capital" of watchmaking, products from this country are considered the standard of quality. However, not every watch brand officially registered in Switzerland has a production in this country. In order to distinguish “real Swiss watches” on the market, the Swiss Made label was introduced. To receive such a marking, the watch must meet several formal requirements at once, prescribed in the legislation of the country — namely:

— have a Swiss mechanism;
— this mechanism must be installed in Switzerland;
— there the clock must pass the final check.

In turn, the movement is considered Swiss if it is assembled and tested locally, and also contains at least 60% of Swiss components (by value, excluding the cost of assembly).

It is worth noting that there are loopholes in the “Swiss Made” law that allow not too scrupulous manufacturers to actually bypass the criteria specified in the law, formally fulfilling them. For example, most of the movement assembly work can be carried out at a factory in Asia, but if the last wheel is installed in Switzerland, the movement can already be considered assembled in Switzerland. So when buying a “Swiss Made” watch, it doesn’t hurt to clarify how carefully a particular brand follows official requirements. Nevertheless, in general, such watches are superior in quality to analogues from other countries (but how much...this difference corresponds to the difference in price is another question).

A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.

Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.

The accuracy of the rate is usually determined by the largest error — the deviation from the reference time, which can occur in a month when the watch is constantly running in normal mode. Accordingly, the smaller the number in this paragraph, the more accurate the clock. In addition, the accuracy of the movement is a kind of status indicator: if the error exceeds the values stated in the characteristics, this may indicate a malfunction in the mechanism.

If the accuracy indicators are the same both in advance and in lag, one number is indicated in the characteristics — for example, 30 sec / month (i.e. +/-30 sec / month); however, many mechanisms have unequal deviations, for example -15/+25 sec/month. Also note that this parameter is relevant only for quartz watches (see “Movement type”): in mechanical models, the accuracy of the rate is noticeably lower, it is measured in seconds not per month, but per day.

The type of markup used on the main watch face. This parameter is relevant for models with hands (see "Dial Type"), while the type of marking is indicated only on the main scale — additional marks on the bezel are not taken into account (although markings on the additional world time dial may be taken into account).

This parameter does not affect the functionality of the watch, and the choice depends solely on the tastes of the owner. The main types of markings found in modern watches include Arabic and Roman numerals (which can be supplemented with marks), a combination of these numbers, as well as the simplest marks themselves. Here are the main features of these options and their combinations:

— Arabic. Dials that have marks only in the form of Arabic numerals — that is, standard modern numbers "1", "2", etc. In this way, both all divisions of the dial, and only some of them (for example, 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock). However, anyway, there are no other types of marks in such watches.

— Roman. Dials that are marked only in the form of Roman numerals — combinations of the symbols I, V, X. This marking gives the watch a peculiar style, but it can take some getting used to — and therefore is less common than Arabic numerals. Again, in this case we are talking about dials that do not carry any other designations, excep...t for numbers of this type.

— Tags. Minimalistic design, in which the divisions on the dial are indicated only by a label, without a signature. Most often, marks are applied to all twelve hours; exceptions to this rule are possible, but they are rare nowadays. It should be noted that such a design can be found both in classic watches with minimal functionality and in advanced models with extensive features: in the first case, the marks give the product a neat appearance, in the second, they save space on the dial for additional scales and markings. Theoretically, such markup is not as convenient as notation with numbers; however, almost all dials in modern wristwatches use a 12-hour scale with a standard location of marks, so with a little habit you can completely do without numbers — the position of the mark on the scale already carries enough information.

— Arabic + Roman. Dials that combine both types of numbers described above at once (sometimes also with marks; in this case, the presence of marks is not specified). The most popular type of watch with this feature is the world clock (see "Features and Features"), where one dial is marked with Arabic numerals and the other with Roman numerals. There is also a combination of these symbols on the same scale — for example, when 3 and 9 hours are indicated by ordinary numerals, and 6 and 12 by Roman numerals. However, neither one nor the other variant received special distribution.

— Labels + Arabic. Dials, in which part of the markings are applied with Arabic numerals, part with marks (for both, see above). Moreover, the ratio of both can be different: for example, in some models there is only one digit (usually "12"); in others, key positions "3", "6", "9" and "12" are designated by numbers; thirdly, part of the dial is occupied by a display, near which the numbers simply do not fit and you have to manage with marks, etc.

— Marks + Roman. The dials, in which part of the markings are applied with marks, part with Roman numerals. This markup method is generally similar to the “labels + Arabic” option described above (and can also provide different design options).

Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.

The most popular in modern watches are black, white, silver and blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular, beige, yellow, green, golden, brown, red, orange, pink, grey and purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).

Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.

How to illuminate the clock face.

— Luminescent coating. A variant used in pointer dials: the hands, and sometimes the scale, are coated with a “phosphorus” coating that glows in the dark. This method of backlighting is inexpensive and can be used even in low-cost models; in addition, it does not require batteries and is suitable even for mechanical watches. On the other hand, coverage is often not as effective as it should be. The fact is that for work it must be “charged” from the sun or another bright light source, and this “charge” is enough for an average of 5-6 hours, and already in the first couple of hours the brightness of the glow drops noticeably.

— Electronic. Illumination based on LEDs or other miniature light sources. Usually, it does not work constantly, but turns on and off by pressing a special button; the exception is LED dials (see "Dial Type"). The main advantage of electronic backlighting is efficiency: it is guaranteed to be enough to view the image on the dial. In addition, such systems do not depend on external illumination, in contrast to the luminescent coatings described above. On the other hand, the lighting requires a battery to operate; therefore, this type of illumination is found exclusively in quartz watches (see “Mechanism type”).

— Luminescent coating / electronic. Systems that combine both types of illumination described above. This option is f...ound mainly among models with combined dials: the hands are coated with a luminous coating, and the electronic backlight is intended mainly for displays and additional scales (and also as a backup option for the hands). The combined backlight is very convenient, however, such watches are somewhat more expensive.

— Tritium illumination. Illumination option found on premium pointer dials. Miniature flasks filled with tritium, a radioactive form of hydrogen, are responsible for the illumination in such models; from the inside, the surface of such flasks is covered with a phosphor, which glows under the influence of tritium radiation. Separately, we note that this radiation does not pose a danger to humans: it does not go beyond the bulb, and even inside its intensity is extremely low. Tritium illumination is expensive, but it is extremely convenient from a practical point of view: "flashlights" work constantly, without batteries and regardless of external lighting, and shine significantly brighter than a conventional luminescent coating. However due to the decay of tritium, they gradually lose their brightness, but this happens very slowly: it takes 12 years to reduce by half, and at least 20 years for the backlight to become useless.

The main colour of the watch case.

Modern watches are quite diverse in colour options. The most widespread models are in shades of " stainless steel ", golden and black ; however, in addition to this, on the market you can find, in particular, white, yellow, green, brown, red, orange, pink, silver, grey, blue and purple cases.

In general, the colour of the case is a fairly obvious parameter; Let's note only some of the nuances associated with marking:

— Multi-coloured models include models in which there is no clearly defined primary colour. If there is such a colour, it is indicated in the characteristics. And for two-tone cases, an additional colour can be specified, for example, "stainless steel with gold " or "black with blue "

— Silver, among other things, are plastic cases without additional coloring.

— "Stainless steel" in this case is a colour, not a material; other metals (e.g. alumin...ium and titanium) that are not complemented by PVD coating (see “Case Coating”) may have this shade. And the cases of gold watches, in turn, are not necessarily made of gold — red and white gold are also used in jewelry.

— Camouflage coloring is indicated separately — such watches are designated as "military", and here, again, the main shade of the coloring is given. However, not every military model has camouflage on the body; see below for details.

The rotating bezel is a swivel ring around the dial, with marks applied to it (ring).

Usually the bezel scale is similar to the minute/second scale of the dial, it is marked from 0 to 60, most often with marks every 5 or every 10 minutes (seconds). In such cases, this function is a somewhat simplified analogue of the timer or stopwatch / chronograph used in watches with analogue dials. To work in the stopwatch mode, you need to align the zero on the bezel with the position of the second or minute hand (depending on how long the period needs to be detected), and at the end of the measurement, look at what division on the bezel this hand has reached. To work in the timer mode, zero on the rotary scale is set at the end of the countdown, and the user can only monitor whether the arrow has reached zero. Thus, you can turn the watch into a timer or stopwatch mode with just one turn of the ring — it's faster and more convenient than digging into the settings. Such features are appreciated, in particular, by scuba divers who use a timer to control air supplies; at the same time, in diving watches, the rotation mechanism is often made one-sided, so that the bezel cannot be accidentally turned in the direction of increasing the remaining time.

There are other types of rotating bezels — for example, in the form of a scale with cardinal points used in watches with a compass.

The main colour of the watch strap/bracelet.

The most popular shades nowadays are stainless steel(the colour of most metal bracelets, not necessarily steel ones), golden(bracelets made of gold and "gold"), black(strap made of different materials, including rubber and nylon, as well as separate bracelets) and brown(mostly leather straps). Other colour options include beige, white, yellow, green, camouflage ( military style), red, orange, pink, silver, grey, blue, and purple.

In addition, some models of watches are equipped with two-tone straps. Most often, white, gold and black are used as secondary colours, and this colour is specified after the main one — for example, “blue with white” or “stainless steel with gold”. If this paragraph lists several colours separated by commas — for example, "black, red, blue" — this means...that the watch is either sold in several versions that differ in the colour of the strap, or comes with several interchangeable straps / bracelets of the corresponding colours at once. This nuance should be clarified separately.