Frame size
Frame size refers to the distance from the saddle attachment point to the bottom bracket attachment point (axles with gears and pedals). The main parameters that determine the choice of a bike for frame size are the height of the user, the purpose of the bike and the intended riding style.It is also worth considering the
female frame, which is lowered, which allows you to ride comfortably even in a skirt or dress.
User height is the most significant factor. In general, the taller the user, the larger the frame should be. The universal formula that allows you to calculate a specific size is as follows: the length of the leg from the groin to the heel in centimeters must be multiplied by 0.6, and then divided by 2.5 — you get the approximate size of the frame in inches. But in the characteristics of brands, the frame can also be indicated in the usual form for measuring size
XXS,
XS,
S,
M,
L,
XL and
XXL.
However, note that this value is very arbitrary and approximate, it can only be used for simple bicycles not intended for extreme driving (for example, city bikes, see "Destination"). If you choose a more specialized model (mountain, road, BMX) — it is better to refer to the tables for th
...e appropriate type, because. sizes for one height can vary significantly depending on the destination. In addition, different manufacturers have different frame geometry and measurement methods, and therefore, for the most accurate selection, it is recommended to use the manufacturers' own tables.
Note that the optimal frame size is not absolute — in most cases, for the same height, “neighboring” sizes are quite suitable. And here it is worth paying attention to the intended driving style. It is believed that small, well-controlled frames are better suited for extreme variant, and larger and more stable ones are better suited for long-term calm movement.Fork material
— Aluminium. In this case, aluminium is the simplest and most unpretentious option. Its advantages include light weight; on the other hand, in the absence of shock absorption, the steering wheel with such a fork is highly susceptible to vibrations, and in terms of durability, aluminium is somewhat inferior to steel.
— Steel. Another relatively simple option, which at the same time is considered more advanced than the aluminium described above, and is found even in fairly expensive pro-level bikes. This is due to the fact that steel is noticeably stronger and more durable, as it is not as susceptible to "metal fatigue". However such forks weigh a little more than aluminium ones.
— Chromium molybdenum steel. A type of steel that is more advanced than more traditional grades. Among the main advantages of such alloys are high strength and reliability; at the same time, due to such properties, individual elements of the forks can be made thinner, and the forks themselves can be made lighter than ordinary steel ones. The main disadvantage of Cro-Mo steel is the rather high cost.
— Carbon. Lightweight and high-strength carbon fibre forks effectively dampen small bumps in the road under the wheels of the bike and slightly spring on small potholes, thereby providing cushioning on bumpy roads. The carbon fork facilitates the design of the front of the bike. Most often it is found on board "highways" and "gravel roads", less often it is installed in o
...ff-road fatbikes. Vulnerable point — carbon forks break under the influence of strong point impacts.Freewheel/cassette model
Model of a cassette — a system of rear wheel gears — mounted on a bicycle. Cassettes of different models differ in characteristics and can belong to different classes — from entry-level to professional. Knowing the cassette model, you can get acquainted with its features in more detail (according to official documentation, reviews, user reviews, etc.). This is especially important when choosing a bike for professional cycling.
Equipment
Additional equipment supplied with the bike.
—
Wings. Protective devices in the form of shields that are installed over the wheels and protect the cyclist and others from water and dirt flying from the wheels while riding. Usually, they are made removable — in case you need to minimize the weight of the car.
—
Saddle with springs. A saddle equipped with springs that make it softer and provide cushioning. Note that soft spring-loaded saddles are designed mainly for a calm, leisurely ride — for high-speed bikes (including advanced road bikers), narrow hard saddles are considered more suitable.
—
Shield on the chain. Protective shield covering the bicycle chain. Note that the dimensions and design of such a shield can be different: in some models it covers the entire upper section of the chain from the front to the rear sprocket, in others it protects only the front sprocket itself from the outside. Anyway, the main task of such a device is to protect the chain from foreign objects, primarily the edges of the cyclist's clothing. The shield can be made removable — in case you need to reduce weight.
—
Footboard. A device in the form of a small folding pin that provides additional support. With a footrest, the bike does not need to be leaned on a pole, wall, fence, etc. — it can be placed vertically on an
...y relatively flat surface. Note that many bikes without a kickstand allow you to buy and install it separately.
— Peggy. Special devices installed on the axles of "stunt" bikes — BMX or mountain bikes of the corresponding specialization (see "Application"). Pegs look like extensions of axes pointing in both directions. The standard size of one such "continuation" is 11 cm in length and 4 cm in diameter. They are used for a variety of acrobatic routines, ranging from riding on pegs to sliding on edges, railings, etc.
— Boot. A classic bike rack is a platform for carrying various cargoes, mounted above the rear wheel. It is found mainly in city bikes (see "Application"), as well as some relatively simple mountain and road models. Separately, we note that it is at least highly discouraged to carry passengers on the boot, and in many countries it is expressly prohibited by traffic rules.
— Front boot. Boot (see above), located above the front wheel. The advantage of this arrangement is that the transported luggage is constantly in front of the cyclist's eyes. On the other hand, the front rack is usually attached to the steering wheel and turns with it; thus, the additional load can significantly complicate management. Therefore, this feature is relatively rare, usually as an addition to the traditional (rear) boot; the exception is tourism models (see "Application").
— Basket on the steering wheel. A basket for transporting various goods, installed in front of the steering wheel, above the front wheel; a kind of analogue of the front boot described above. At the same time, on the one hand, the basket is more massive, on the other hand, it is better suited for transporting large items or numerous small items. In addition, the cargo on the boot needs to be additionally secured, while this is not always required for the basket.
— Signal / call. A bell or other sound signal — for example, a horn — usually mounted on the steering wheel, at the cyclist's hand. This equipment is very useful for warning other road users of an approaching bicycle. And in some countries, the presence of a sound signal is mandatory according to traffic rules.
— Lighting equipment. In this case, the presence of a headlight, a taillight, and in some cases, both at once, may be implied; specific configuration should be specified separately. Anyway, such equipment is indispensable for riding at night: it makes the cyclist visible to other road users, and the headlight also illuminates the road. In many countries, traffic rules expressly prohibit driving at night without lights.
— Bottle holder. Dedicated water bottle holder, usually mounted on the frame. It is more convenient to carry a supply of water with you on such a mount than to keep a bottle in a backpack, bag, on the boot, etc. Some bike models with this function are immediately equipped with a bottle, for others it needs to be purchased separately.
— Pump. The presence of the pump in the delivery set eliminates the need to buy it separately; in addition, the “native” pump initially fits the existing mounts, while problems may arise with a third-party one. Note that most often the kit comes with relatively simple and compact hand pumps; they are not designed for large volumes of work, but they can quite cope with everyday tasks like pumping a flat tyre.
