Stiffening rib
The presence
of stiffeners on the shovel blade — longitudinal parallel protrusions. As the name suggests, these ridges increase the stiffness of the web, increasing its strength and flexural strength. This function is especially popular in models made of plastic (see "Web material") — this material itself is not very strong and bends easily, and additional reinforcement is very useful for it.
Corrosion resistant
The presence
of corrosion protection on the shovel blade.
Usually, we are talking about a special coating that covers the canvas from contact with water and other substances that can lead to rust. Usually such a coating has a characteristic black colour. It is relevant only for shovels made of ordinary steel (see “Blade material”): stainless grades, in accordance with the name, resist corrosion well, and aluminium and plastic are practically not subject to it. Over time, the protective coating can wear out and lose its properties, but anyway, it has a positive effect on the durability of the tool.
Blade width
The total width of the shovel blade.
The value of this parameter will be different depending on what the shovel is used for — digging, loading / unloading bulk materials or snow removal. In the first case (for example, in bayonet shovels), the width of the pit being dug depends on the size of the canvas. It doesn't always have to be large, and a wide blade experiences more resistance, meaning a large shovel isn't always the best choice. For example, drainage cloths (see "Form") are initially made narrow.
In the second case (shovel shovels), a large width allows you to scoop up more cargo, however, this cargo will weigh accordingly. Therefore, here the difference between different models is most often not very large — most of the canvases have a width in the range of 220 – 260 mm.
In the third case (snow shovels and scrapers), the large width allows you to capture more snow at a time, which is convenient in large open spaces. But for difficult conditions with an abundance of narrow passages and tight nooks and crannies, it is better to choose a narrower tool that can go where a wide canvas does not fit.
More features
—
Serrated notch. Most often, this feature is found on bayonet blades (see "Form"), and the teeth can be located both on the front and on the side edge. Anyway, such a notch facilitates cutting — for example, removing weeds or cutting roots.
Shaft material
— Wood. Even inexpensive types of wood are for the most part quite strong and reliable, especially since the stalk can be made quite thick. At the same time, this material is also durable — the service life of
a wooden handle is often comparable to the service life of the canvas itself. However compared with steel (see below), such handles are considered less reliable, not least because they are always made removable. On the other hand, a broken or too long / short handle can be easily replaced with a new one. Also, we note that wood has a relatively low thermal conductivity and does not cool hands as much as metal, and in general it is pleasant to the touch.
— Steel.
Steel handle, usually, is used in shovels with a blade of the same material (there are exceptions, but extremely rare); moreover, in most cases, such a handle is welded or riveted to the canvas and can only be detached by breaking it off from the tool. The main advantage of steel is its high strength, garden / construction shovels of this type are better suited for work with high loads than tools with wooden handles. In addition, this material is suitable for foldable touring/automobile models (see "Type"). At the same time, steel cuttings are noticeably heavier than wooden ones, and long work with such a shovel requires more strength and endurance. In addition, steel is noticeably more expensive, it is extremely difficult to change su
...ch handles (and most often it is simply unjustified), and if the handle breaks, the entire shovel becomes unusable. So it makes sense to specifically look for a full-size shovel with a steel handle, first of all, for complex work, for which the tree may not be reliable enough.
— Aluminium. Another kind of metal cuttings, permanently fixed on the canvas — similar to the steel ones described above. As for the properties, aluminium, on the one hand, is noticeably lighter than steel, on the other hand, it is not so strong and may not be suitable for heavy work.
— Plastic. The main advantages of plastic are lightness and low cost. In addition, it, like wood, does not get too cold hands at low air temperatures, making it excellent for snow removal tools (see "Type"). But full-sized construction / garden shovels with plastic handles are rare and are intended mainly for use where no special loads are planned — the strength of plastic, especially in inexpensive models, is rather low.
— Without a cutting. Shovels that are not equipped with cuttings at all and are sold in the form of a canvas with a shell. The main advantage of this configuration is that the handle can be chosen at your discretion; this is especially useful in cases where standard handles are not suitable for one reason or another (for example, if the user is tall and the stock handles are almost all too short). Most of these models require use with a wooden handle and do not allow other materials; however, this point cannot be called particularly critical.Shovel length
The total length of the shovel; for models with variable length (folding or telescopic, see above), the maximum size is taken into account, when unfolded to the maximum position.
In the case of full size shovels (garden shovels, construction shovels, snow shovels — see "Type"), the optimal length depends primarily on the height of the user. It is believed that a shovel, placed vertically, should be 10 cm below the shoulder joint; however, some prefer a shorter tool — up to the elbow. If you do not have the opportunity to “try on” the shovel “live”, you can measure the height to the desired point (10 cm below the shoulder or elbow) and, when choosing, compare this height with the length of the tool. Note that a shovel without a handle (see above) may well be somewhat longer than necessary — the “surplus” of the handle usually does not create any particular inconvenience. But in the presence of a handle, length matching is extremely important.
If we are talking about small shovels for tourist / automotive purposes, then here we should proceed from a compromise between efficiency and compactness. A shorter shovel will be more convenient to store and transport, but may be inconvenient and ineffective for heavy work (both because of the inconvenience in the hands and because of the short lever length, which requires considerable effort).