Comparison Gerber Truss vs Ganzo G302H

The number of additional features provided in the design of the knife - in addition to the blade itself, which in this case is not taken into account. We also note that in our catalog this number is not counted by the actual number of tools, but by the number of tool types: for example, three flat screwdrivers of different sizes are counted as one function. See "Features and Features" for details on optional equipment.

The grade of steel from which the main blade of the knife is made. Knowing this name, you can find detailed data on the steel used and evaluate how high quality the knife is, whether it is suitable for the intended application and whether it is worth the money. Here are some of the most popular brands today:

— 440A, 440B, 440C. Category "above average". Relatively inexpensive varieties with excellent value for money. The carbon content is 0.75%, 0.9% and 1.2%, respectively; 440C steel is considered the most advanced, however, all varieties are resistant to corrosion, keep sharpening well and at the same time are quite easy to sharpen.

— AUS-8. The Japanese analogue of the "440th" line — more precisely, steel 440B (analogues 440 A and 440C are marked AUS-6 and AUS-10). It is distinguished by the presence of vanadium in the composition, which has a positive effect on wear resistance.

— 8Cr13MoV, 8Cr14MoV, 5Cr15MoV, etc. Chinese grades of steel with the addition of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium. The most popular and advanced option is deservedly considered "eight-chrome-thirteen". It is similar in properties to AUS-8, but has a higher carbon content; such steel is relatively inexpensive, but it has very good performance characteristics, due to which it is found both in relatively inexpensive knives and in premium models.

— 420. The material of the low-cost category, which, however, is distinguished by excellent corrosion resist...ance. Such steel wears out quickly, but it is also very easy to sharpen; it is well suited for low-cost knives designed for daily use.

— 420HC. A slightly more advanced version of the 420 steel described above, having a higher carbon content. As a result, the 420HC is noticeably harder and holds an edge longer; in terms of resistance to corrosion, it is practically not inferior to the original, but costs only slightly more. It is also considered an excellent option for mass-produced low-cost knives.

— D2. Category "significantly above average". A distinctive feature of this steel is its high chromium content, due to which, in terms of corrosion resistance, it approaches full-fledged “stainless steels” (although it still falls short of them). In addition, D2 is noticeably harder than most materials of a similar price category, due to which it is quite difficult to sharpen, but retains its working properties for a long time.

— CPM. A family of steels from Crucible that includes premium and super premium grades. Manufactured using the Crucible Particle Metallurgy proprietary technology, which, according to the manufacturer, provides higher quality than traditional production methods; however, such materials cost accordingly. The specific characteristics of different grades, of course, vary somewhat, but they are all characterized by good hardness and corrosion resistance. However it is worth considering that certain types of CPM (especially the most expensive ones) can be very difficult to sharpen; on the other hand, such sharpening is maintained noticeably longer than in cheaper materials.

— 65X13. Perhaps the most popular brand of Russian-made steel. It has a high chromium content, which contributes to corrosion resistance, while it is quite easy to sharpen, but does not differ in hardness. It is inexpensive and is used mainly in the mass production of inexpensive knives.

The total weight of the knife. It is worth evaluating this indicator depending on the type (see above) and purpose: for example, for a compact hiking model, light weight is usually a virtue, among hunting and fishing it all depends on specialization, and a machete, by definition, must be weighty — otherwise, cut with such a blade it will just be uncomfortable.

— No point. Models that do not have a pronounced point in the main blade. This design does not allow the blade to make punctures, which in some situations can be an advantage. For example, such models are great for the role of “the first knife for a young tourist”: the absence of a point reduces the likelihood of injury, which is important for children who do not have a clear skill for safe handling of a knife. In "adult" situations, the absence of a point can come in handy, for example, when skinning a hunted animal (so as not to pierce the insides) or cutting a net that fits snugly against the side of a rubber boat. In addition, the presence of a point may be one of the criteria for belonging to a melee weapon; in many countries, a knife without a point is not automatically such a weapon, regardless of other design features.

— Blade lock. The presence of a special lock in the folding knife, which prevents accidental folding of the blade. Such folding is both inconvenient and very traumatic, since the owner's fingers usually get in the way of the blade; blocking prevents such troubles. Note that the lock may not be installed in compact Swiss knives, the blade of which is not dangerous due to its small size, and this function is not found among butterflies in principle — the handle design itself does not allow the knife to fold while held in hand.

— Opening with one hand. The ability t...o open a folding knife (see "Design") with one hand. Among the knives with this feature, two varieties can be distinguished — with manual and automatic opening. In "manual" models, for opening with one hand, a protrusion (peg) or cutout is provided on the blade, which plays the role of a stop for the thumb; in "automatic machines" the blade unfolds (and in many frontal knives — and folds) under the action of a spring controlled by a button or a slider. Anyway, this function provides additional convenience; however, note that in some countries, opening with one hand is considered one of the signs of edged weapons.
Separately, we note that butterfly knives in our catalog are also considered “one-handed”, and by definition: any such knife can be “unwound” from a closed position to an open one using a relatively simple technique.

— Emerson Hook. A device designed to open a folding knife directly when pulled out of a pocket. A knife with such a device, unlike more traditional models, is worn on a clip with the tip up, not down; and the hook itself is located on the butt at the base of the blade and is designed in such a way that when removing the knife, you can catch the hook on the edge of the pocket and open the blade completely or almost completely. This function can be very useful in critical situations, where, as they say, everything is decided in a split second. On the other hand, it is worth bearing in mind that a certain skill is needed to use it effectively; and the Emerson hook is “not friendly” with fabrics, it can damage the material of the pocket, so it is best to use this method of opening with jeans or other clothes made of dense, durable matter.

— Finger notch. The presence in the design of the knife of a special recess located on the handle, where the index finger is placed with a direct grip. This feature provides additional convenience when holding the knife, but makes it less versatile — when using grip options other than straight, the notch can create difficulties (therefore, for example, it is quite rare in hunting models). It should be noted that the presence of a subfinger notch and its depth can serve as one of the criteria for determining whether a weapon belongs to a bladed weapon.

— Strap attachment. The presence in the design of the knife handle of a special fastening for a lanyard — a special strap. The lanyard provides additional convenience when removing the knife from the sheath, can be used to additionally fix the handle in the hand, to install a counterweight that facilitates chopping blows (for machetes and similar models, see "Type"), etc. The traditional strap mount is just a hole in the handle. However, in some types of knives (in particular, Swiss ones), this role can be played by a ring, which is also used to attach the knife itself to a carabiner, a bunch of keys, etc.

— Case. The classic case is an accessory that provides convenience and sometimes additional safety when storing and transporting the tool. At the same time, the difference between such an accessory and a scabbard (which perform a similar function) is that, usually, the knife is placed entirely in the case, while the sheath covers only the blade, leaving the handle outside. Accordingly, folding knives and multi-tools are usually equipped with covers, and such accessories are quite popular among awkward models. And here are the main options for materials:

• Fabric cover. The most popular variety nowadays. As a “fabric”, a durable and reliable material is usually used, resistant to abrasion, temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation, etc.; a typical example is dense nylon ("cordura") or polyurethane fiber. Anyway, fabric covers are cheaper than leather ones and are not so demanding to care for, while they are reliable, practical, and look good, which is why they are widely used.
• Leather Case. Leather cases differ primarily in their characteristic appearance. Often such a product is not just a utilitarian addition to the knife, but a full-fledged fashion accessory, further emphasizing the style and character of the owner. And in terms of protection, leather covers are somewhat superior to fabric ones. On the other hand, genuine leather is quite expensive, requires special care rules, and in some situations may lose its appearance and performance (for example, when wet and dry quickly, the material may crack). And various leather substitutes (which can also be implied in this case) may have different characteristics — usually, they directly depend on the price.
• Carrying case. This option is indicated in our catalog in two cases: either if the manufacturer did not directly specify the specific material, or if the knife can be supplied with different types of sheaths (at the user's choice or depending on the batch / region of delivery — this point should be specified separately). However, anyway, the material can often be clarified from photographs — after all, covers are most often made of leather or fabric, and it is not difficult to distinguish between these options.

— Scabbards. This accessory, like the case, is used for convenient and safe storage and carrying of the knife. The difference lies in the fact that the sheath hides only the blade, leaving the handle open. Accordingly, it makes sense to supplement only clumsy knives with such products. Also note that the sheath is usually designed to be able to quickly remove the knife (another difference from the same cases). And here are the most popular materials used for such accessories:

• Plastic scabbard. Plastic is an inexpensive and at the same time quite practical material. Nowadays, there is a wide variety of plastic grades on the market that differ in characteristics; this allows you to choose an option for almost any purpose and price category of a knife. Thanks to this, plastic scabbards are very popular. We only note that products made from kydex (which is also formally plastic) are listed separately in our catalog.
• Kydex scabbard. Kydex was originally a trademark of Sekisui SPI, but nowadays similar materials from other manufacturers are also combined under this name. Kydex is actually a special advanced type of plastic, which is characterized by high strength, scratch resistance (it is difficult to scratch such a surface even on purpose) and general reliability. For illustration, it can be noted that even aviation fairings and marine deep-sea robots are made of such material nowadays. Thus, the scabbard is made of kydex and placed in a separate category. Of course, such products cost more than plastic ones — however, the difference in price is not as serious as one might imagine. So such scabbards can be found even in relatively simple models of knives.
• Leather scabbard. Leather scabbards have the same characteristics as sheaths made of this material. Such products look great; often they, in addition to practical functions, also play the role of fashion accessories. This material is especially well combined with hunting and tourist knives in a traditional design; in fact, such models are most often supplemented with leather scabbards. And on the practical side, the skin is distinguished by excellent strength. At the same time, this material requires certain special rules for use and care. For example, a wet leather product should dry slowly, at a low temperature — otherwise it may lose its luster and become deformed. And for a full guarantee, it is advisable to periodically treat the surface of such scabbards with special means. Also note that genuine leather is quite expensive, and various leather substitutes (which can also be used in this case) may have different characteristics — usually, they directly depend on the price.
• Fabric scabbard. The scabbard is made of dense and durable fabric — usually based on synthetic fibers (for example, nylon cordura). To protect against contact of the fabric with the blade, such products often provide an additional insert made of plastic or other dense material. However, in general, this option, for a number of reasons, is used quite rarely — mainly in relatively inexpensive knives.

Additional functions provided in the design of the knife in addition to the main blade. For multi-tools (see "Type"), in this case, the knife blade is also considered the main tool, and this paragraph lists the rest of the product's capabilities.

— Can opener. A device popularly known as a "opener" and designed to open cans. It is usually a short and thick blade, hard enough to cut through tin.

— Knife for cleaning fish. A specialized blade designed primarily for butchering prey while fishing. Note that the capabilities of this blade are usually not limited to cleaning and deboning — in many models it is also equipped with a hook extractor, line guide and other devices for the convenience of the fisherman. This function can be found both in actual fishing knives and in other types of knives (see "Type").

— Bottle opener. Glass bottle opener with non-threaded metal caps: the cap is pushed on from one side and can be easily removed. Of course, with a certain skill, you can open a bottle even with the simplest knife handle that does not have an opener; however, using a specialized device is both easier and safer.

— Corkscrew. The classic corkscrew for opening wine bottles is a device in the form of a spiral made of thick metal wire with a sharpened tip. Such a spiral is screwed directly into the co...rk and makes it easy to remove it.

— Extra blade. Another knife blade, in addition to the main one. Usually, it has smaller dimensions, and may also differ in shape, purpose and type of sharpening (see "Blade type"). For example, the main blade can be made smooth, and the additional blade can be serrated; and in a mushroom knife (see "Type") a curved shape, convenient for cutting mushrooms, can have an additional blade, combined with the main blade of a more traditional shape. Anyway, the second blade makes the knife more versatile; in addition, it can be useful when blunting the main one. Some models with this feature may have more than one additional blade.

— Flashlight. Your own built-in flashlight can come in handy when there is insufficient ambient light, when a full-fledged flashlight is not nearby or it is impossible to use it — for example, during an unexpected power outage in the house or when working in hard-to-reach and dimly lit places. Usually, the light of such a flashlight is directed to the same place where the blade “points”.

— Crosshead screwdriver. Screwdriver for bolts and screws with a cross-shaped slot on the head. It can be either a Phillips screwdriver itself, or a special kind of flat screwdriver, specially designed for cross bolts and screws and differing from classic slotted tools in the shape of a sting. Note that in this case it is precisely the non-removable, built-in screwdriver head (or several heads) that is meant; the possibility of installing interchangeable nozzles (bits) is indicated separately, see "Adapter for a bit" below. So when buying a tool with a Phillips screwdriver, it's ok to clarify the specific dimensions of the sting (stings).

— Slotted screwdriver. Screwdriver with a flat sting and designed for bolts and screws with a straight slot. If necessary, it can also be used with cross heads, however, under heavy loads it can damage the slot, so such work must be carried out carefully. As in the case of the Phillips screwdrivers described above, this function implies a non-removable screwdriver head, the size of which should be specified separately.

— Scissors. In classic knives, the scissors are usually small in size. Due to this, they are not suitable for work involving large volumes or requiring significant effort, however, they can be useful for small household tasks: cut a thread or adhesive tape, cut off part of a paper sheet, cut off a burr on a nail, etc. But among multitools (see "Type"), there is, along with this, another option — when scissors are the main working tool; in some models, they can even be used for cutting metal. Therefore, when buying a multitool with scissors, it is worth clarifying which of the formats it uses — a miniature fixture in the handle or full-sized blades.

— Pilka. The file used in knives usually looks like an additional blade equipped with characteristic teeth instead of the usual cutting edge. Such a tool is unlikely to be useful when harvesting firewood, but it may come in handy for some simple work — cutting small boards (for example, from boxes), sawing off branches of small thickness, etc. Some files can also be used on materials that a conventional blade does not do well: plastic, rubber, thick ropes, etc. There are also tools for metal. Note that serrated sharpening (see "Blade type") is not considered a file.

— Wrench. Separate device for loosening and tightening nuts, bolts with faceted heads, etc. Knife-mounted wrenches are usually fixed sizes — an adjustable design would be too cumbersome. On the other hand, the special shape of the key allows you to work with several sizes of nuts.

— Pliers. Pliers are used to pinch and hold various objects. They are especially useful for those cases when the efforts of the fingers are not enough for this or it is impossible to touch the part with your hands at all (for example, if it is heated to a high temperature). In traditional knives, pliers are quite rare, but in multi-tools (see "Type") are often the main tool. Note that classic pliers with even jaws are almost never used today, usually pliers play their role — a universal tool that combines flat jaws, notches for gripping round parts, side cutters, a wire cutting device, and in some models — also needle nose pliers (see below).

— Nippers. A tool used for cutting (biting) hard materials, primarily metal wire; in addition, it can be used for other purposes, in particular for stripping wires. In modern products (primarily multitools), the so-called side cutters — a type of nippers in which the cutting edges are parallel to the handles. Side cutters are most often not a separate tool, but an integral part of the pliers; see "Pliers" above for details. Also note that some models provide several types of wire cutters — for example, separately for thin and thick wire.

— Pliers. In fact, it is a variation of the pliers described above, equipped with thin, tapered to the ends sponges. Such a tool will be useful for precision work, for which when ordinary pliers are too large, and tweezers do not provide the proper clamping force. Needle-nose pliers are practically never found as a separate device, most often they are made in the form of elongated jaws on regular pliers (for more details, see "Pliers" above).

— Stripper (removal of insulation). Special tool for stripping wires. Its design may be different, but anyway, it was originally designed to cut only the insulation without damaging the metal core. In this way, strippers compare favorably with other tools that are used in electrical work for the same purposes — in particular, from wire cutters.

— File. A traditional file is a tool whose working part looks like a notched surface. In modern knives, files are usually small, finely cut and, like many other full-size tools, are not designed for large-scale and rough work. Such a device can be useful, for example, for deburring or leveling small surfaces. Note that you should not confuse a file with a nail file (see below).

— Tweezers. Tweezers make it easier to work with small details that are difficult to hold in your fingers: its thin jaws allow you to securely hold even very small objects. To further simplify delicate work (in which even a relatively small knife handle can create inconvenience), tweezers are often made removable.

— Awl-sewing machine. The classic awl is a thick needle on the handle, but in knives the design of this tool is somewhat different. Most often, the awl was tetrahedral, somewhat expanding towards the base, vaguely resembling a very narrow and thick blade without sharpening. However, its purpose is no different from the traditional one: piercing holes in dense materials such as cardboard, leather, thin plastic or plywood, etc.

— Adapter for a bit. A device for installing bits — interchangeable working nozzles, which are actually different types of screwdrivers. In fact, the presence of this function turns the knife / multi-tool into a universal screwdriver: bits can have different sizes, be made flat, cross-shaped, tri- or hex, etc. Some models of knives / multi-tools are equipped with their own set of bits and can only work with them; others are compatible with standard screwdriver bits.

— Toothpick. Hygiene device for removing small particles of food stuck between the teeth. Usually it looks like a thin pointed stick and is made removable — picking your teeth while holding a knife handle is not only not very aesthetically pleasing, but simply inconvenient. With regular use, a toothpick should be disinfected periodically — after all, pockets, bags and other places where knives are stored are usually far from sterile.

— Nailfile. Despite the name, this tool is essentially not a file, but a file with a very fine notch, designed for processing nails during a manicure. The use of a file can include both the correction of nails after cutting, and regular filing, eliminating the need to use scissors or tweezers.

— Sling cutter. In modern knives, this term most often means the so-called "safe" sling cutter. It has the appearance of a characteristic hook — folding, removable or built-in (formed by a slot in the handle); with such a device, you can securely grab a sling, rope or belt, and inside the hook there is a sharpened edge, which ensures cutting. Thus, for use it is not necessary to open the main blade, and the probability of cutting oneself is practically reduced to zero. As the name suggests, the main purpose of line cutters is to quickly and safely cut parachute lines (for example, when they are tangled in the air or landing on a tree). In addition, it is convenient to cut seat belts with such a device, which can be a real salvation in an accident.

— Hook. The device in the form of a hook can have a different design and, accordingly, applications. So, in hunting and fishing knives (see "Type") it is made in the form of a characteristic "fang" on the butt of the blade; this fang can come in handy at some stages of butchering prey. In turn, in Swiss models (see ibid.), the hook is one of the folding tools, and here its scope is quite wide: such a device can, for example, tighten a knot, remove a hot pot from a fire, and even make it easier to carry a heavy object , hooking it on a hook and using the knife as a handle.

— Ruler. Your own ruler can be useful for measuring small segments and drawing straight lines — for example, when laying a route on a map or marking blanks for cutting. Folding rulers installed in knives are often made transparent for added convenience. Another option — a ruler in the form of markings on the handle — can be found in multitools.

— Broken glass. Glass breaking device. It usually looks like a small pin on the handle — even a not very strong blow with such a pin is almost guaranteed to break the glass. Rescue work is considered to be the main area of use of glass cullet — in particular, in case of car accidents, when the car door can jam and the window will be the only way out of it. However, there are also less “extreme” applications of this tool — for example, splitting pieces of ice or caked lumps of salt.

— Chisel. A joinery and carpentry tool, which is a rather thick blade, the cutting edge of which is located in the front, in width (and not in length, as in ordinary knives). Such a device is intended for sampling and cleaning recesses in wood, chamfering, etc. It is found mainly in Swiss models and multi-tools. The dimensions of the "knife" chisels are small, they are designed for small volumes of work.

— Magnifying glass. A small magnifying glass that can be used for various purposes. The classic option is to help with looking at small details: miniature objects, small print on maps, drawings, etc. This feature can be especially useful for people with vision problems. In addition, a magnifying glass can be used as a fire source by focus sunlight on a clear day. The term "glass" in this case is conditional, because. in knives, these devices are usually made of transparent plastic — it is not so fragile, and it weighs less.

— Needle (pin). The needle included in the knife tool kit is usually made removable, not folding. Usually, it does not have an eyelet and is not intended for classical sewing, but the length and thickness of such needles often allow them to be used not only for piercing various materials, but also for drawing lines on the surface (scratching).

Note that this is not the whole list of additional equipment found in modern knives and multitools. Manufacturers can equip their products with other devices, such as a crimp for wires, a carabiner for attaching to camping equipment, folding spoons and forks, and even completely exotic features, such as specialized tools for golfers.

The country of origin of the brand under which the knife is marketed. Usually, it is indicated by the "homeland" of the manufacturing company or by the location of its headquarters.

There are many stereotypes associated with the “nationality” of brands and products, but most of them have no basis nowadays. First, the actual place of production is often different from the brand's country of origin. Secondly, the quality of the goods depends not so much on geography, but on the policy of a particular company and how carefully this very quality is controlled in it. Therefore, you should pay attention to the country of origin of the brand only if you fundamentally want or (do not want) to support a manufacturer from a certain state. Quality is best judged by the reputation of a particular brand and the general price category. But still Swiss knives and American knives and multi-tools a> deserve respect. However, this is more of a reputation, German counterparts can be just as good. As well as Ukrainian.