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Comparison Yamaha FG830 vs Fender CD-140SCE

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Yamaha FG830
Fender CD-140SCE
Yamaha FG830Fender CD-140SCE
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Typeacousticelectroacoustic
Number of strings66
Pickup
Tone block
Typeactive
Equalizer
Tuner
Body
Size4/44/4
Shapedreadnought (western)dreadnought (western)
Cutaway
Pickguard
Bodysolid top decksolid top deck
Top decksprucespruce
Bottom deckrosewoodmahogany
Shellrosewoodmahogany
Bridgerosewoodrosewood
Neck
Number of frets2020
Anchorsingledouble
Scale25.6 "25.3 "
Neck materialnatomahogany
Fretboardrosewoodrosewood
Color
Added to E-Catalogdecember 2016july 2016

Type

General type of tool.

First of all, it is worth noting that the name “acoustic guitar” in our time can be used both in a broad sense (to denote a whole class of instruments) and in a narrow sense (to denote one of the types of such instruments). Acoustic guitars in the broad sense of the word also include classical and electro-acoustic models, as well as more specific instruments - acoustic bass guitars and ukuleles. Here is a detailed description of each of these varieties.

Acoustic. Speaking about the types of guitars, “acoustic” refers to relatively modern models that differ in design from the “classics” (see below). In terms of capabilities, the main features of such instruments are the ability to use metal strings, as well as a generally louder and more sonorous sound. Externally, acoustic guitars (in the narrow sense of the word) are distinguished primarily by a relatively narrow and long neck, as well as a slightly different bridge design than classical ones; in addition, most models also have a larger body, the shape of which can be very diverse (see “Shape (type)”). This type of guitar can be used for different playing styles; in this sense it is more versatile than classic models.

- Classic. Instruments created on the basis of traditional Spanish guitars back in...the 19th century and surviving to this day almost unchanged. The classical guitar has a fairly wide neck, as well as a characteristic body shape; this shape is actually a standard, so different models are very similar in outline and differ in appearance mainly in color and the presence/absence of a cutout (see “Cutaway”). The main functional feature of such instruments is the inability to work with metal strings - on the “classics” you can only use nylon. Due to this, such guitars sound very soft and relatively quiet, and as a result, they are poorly suited for aggressive, dynamic chord playing. Therefore, the main purpose of such instruments is classical compositions. Also, this type of guitar is well suited for initial music learning: nylon strings do not cut your fingertips as much as metal ones.

— Electroacoustic. Acoustic guitars, complemented by built-in pickups and, as a rule, tone blocks (see below for both). This allows you not only to use the guitar in a traditional, acoustic format, but also to connect it to an amplifier or other equipment, incl. to add additional effects to the sound using “gadgets”.

- Ukulele. An instrument also known as the "ukulele". Outwardly it is really very similar to a guitar, but it is much smaller in size. There are usually 4 strings on such an instrument; there are other options - 8 (4 double) or 6, as on a regular guitar (“guitalele”), such models are also included in this category. The ukulele became widespread in the Pacific Islands and from the very beginning was associated with Hawaiian traditional music, but this does not stop there: almost the same possibilities are available for such instruments as for ordinary acoustic guitars.

- Bass. Guitars with a low, bass sound. The classical bass has 4 strings in EADG tuning - similar to the third through sixth strings of a six-string guitar, but an octave lower; The strings themselves, accordingly, are also much thicker. Five-string models are less common; they have a similar tuning principle (see “Number of strings”). Externally, many basses stand out with long and narrow necks, although this is not strictly necessary. A special case is the fretless bass: such an instrument does not have saddles on the neck, which expands the possibilities for using various specific sound production techniques, but requires special precision when placing the fingers. In any case, the main use of bass is rhythmic accompaniment, most often in combination with drums; For solo parts, such an instrument is practically not used. Also note that acoustic basses are usually supplemented with pickups - similar to the electro-acoustic guitars described above: it is very difficult to sound such an instrument in another way (with an external microphone).

Pickup

The presence of a pickup in the design of the guitar.

The pickup allows you to connect the instrument to external equipment — for example, for a concert; it, in accordance with the name, provides sound transmission from the strings to the output (usually through the tone block, see below). By definition, all electric acoustic guitars have this feature, and basses are usually equipped with pickups (see “Type”).

Type

The type of tone block installed in a guitar with a pickup (see above).

The tone block is responsible for processing the signal coming from the pickup before applying this signal to the output of the instrument. Such processing includes at least frequency correction, often also amplification; in addition, it is through the tone block that such functions as a tuner for tuning and an equalizer are implemented (see below). And the types of such blocks can be as follows:

— Active. Tone blocks operating from their own power source (usually a replaceable battery). Such modules are more complicated and more expensive than passive ones, besides, when using them, you need to monitor the condition of the batteries and change them in time. On the other hand, the active operation scheme allows you to implement many advanced functions: high-quality frequency correction, gain, impedance matching with an external amplifier, as well as the equalizer and tuner mentioned above. Thus, most guitars with pickups nowadays are equipped with active tone blocks.

— Passive. Passive tone blocks do not have electronics that require additional power, so they are inexpensive and extremely easy to use. At the same time, the capabilities of such blocks are much more modest: for example, timbre correction in them is carried out only by cutting off “extra” frequencies, and there is no talk of amplification at all. This variant has not been widely used.

Equalizer

The presence in the guitar tone block (see above) of the equalizer function.

The equalizer in this case means the ability to set the volume level for each individual frequency band. This allows you to quite accurately adjust the tone block to the desired sound. Guitar equalizers usually have less than 3 bands (low, medium, high frequencies) — this is quite enough for the initial adjustment (it makes sense to fine-tune the sound already on external equipment).

Tuner

The presence of a built-in tuner in the guitar tone block (see above).

The tuner is used when tuning the guitar: it “listens” to each string and tells the musician how much the pitch of its sound corresponds to the reference (higher, lower, normal). This equipment greatly simplifies the setup. Tuners can also be produced as external devices, however, the presence of such electronics directly in the tone block is much more convenient: at least, it is always at hand and is not lost. For more details about the features of such devices, see "Tuner" below.

Cutaway

Special cutout on the body of the guitar. It is located at the base of the neck, to the right of it, if you look at the upright guitar from the front (in left-handed models — on the left). This feature makes it much easier to play on the upper frets (located near the rosette): without a cutout, the body would prevent reaching them. Therefore, this feature is highly desirable for guitarists who play notes at high frets (from the 12th and above).

There is an opinion that the cutout negatively affects the acoustics of the guitar (reduces the useful volume of the body, reduces the volume and saturation). However, in most cases, this effect is almost imperceptible, especially since manufacturers often use various tricks to compensate for this effect.

Bottom deck

The material from which the lower soundboard of the guitar is made is a flat surface on the opposite side from the upper soundboard (it is this surface that is adjacent to the musician's body when the instrument is held normally).

The value of this parameter is described in detail in the “Upper deck” section — what is stated there is also true in this case. We only note that a wider range of materials is used for the lower deck: this part is less demanding on the characteristics of the material, which gives manufacturers additional choice.

In terms of specific materials, rosewood, sapele, maple, meranti and nato, among others, enjoy considerable popularity in modern times. Here is a brief description of each of them:

— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.

— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.

— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is...not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.

— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.

— Nato. A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.

Shell

The material from which the side of the guitar is made is the “side” surface of the body, which unites the upper and lower soundboards (see above).

About the meaning of the material of the body, see paragraph "Top deck" — everything stated in it is also true for the shell. Unless the range of materials used for this part is noticeably wider; also note that most often the material of the shell coincides with the material of the bottom deck. Here is a summary of some of the more popular options:

— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.

— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.

— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.

— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.

— Nato.... A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.

Anchor

The type of truss provided in the guitar neck design.

The truss rod is a long metal rod located inside the neck of the guitar (along it). It is designed to provide the desired stiffness and prevent neck distortion due to string tension. This function is relevant for models that use metal strings — primarily acoustic ones (see "Type"); Nylon guitars don't need an anchor.

Often it is possible to adjust the tension force of the anchor — to change the degree of deflection of the neck. This can be useful both for adjusting to the guitarist's preferences and for correcting neck distortion that develops over time.

Note that the lack of information on the anchor does not mean the absence of the latter: some manufacturers simply do not bother to mention it in the basic data on the tool. So in such cases, you can try to find more detailed information on the selected model.

Specific options for the anchor can be as follows:

— Single. An anchor in the form of a single rod is the simplest and most inexpensive option. At the same time, the strength and rigidity of such a rod is sufficient in most cases.

— Double. Twin anchor, consisting of two rods. A pair of rods provides increased strength and reliability compared to a single truss rod, and also provides additional protection against lateral deformations of the fingerboard (deviations to the right / left). At the same time, a double anchor is not cheap, despite the fact...that the described advantages are really important only in professional music, where even the slightest deviations from the reference sound are unacceptable. Therefore, the double anchor is found mainly in premium tools.

— Is absent. The complete absence of an anchor in the design of the neck. Despite the useful properties of this part, its use is far from always justified: for example, the neck can be made of durable and elastic materials that “work” well without additional reinforcement. Another reason for the one-piece construction is that mounting a metal rod disrupts the neck's uniformity and can degrade the instrument's acoustic performance, which can be critical on high-end models. Note that the absence of an anchor is separately indicated only for acoustic guitars and other instruments with metal strings; in "nylon" models, rods are not used by definition, and there is no need to specifically specify its absence.
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