Comparison Squier Bullet Strat vs Yamaha PAC012

Electric guitar pickup layout diagram. The letters used in this diagram indicate the types of pickups:

- S - single. A single-coil pickup that looks like a narrow strip, often with a number of “buttons” (magnets) corresponding to the number of strings. Such modules provide clear and ringing sound, well suited for jazz, blues and other similar genres. On the other hand, the sound saturation from single-coils is not very high; they are poorly compatible with distortion and other similar effects, which is why they are poorly suited for “heavy” styles of music. In addition, such pickups are susceptible to external magnetic fields, which can degrade the sound.

- H - humbucker. A type of pickup with two coils, originally created to compensate for the shortcomings of single coils - in particular, to reduce the level of interference from external magnetic interference. However, in the end it turned out that humbuckers differ noticeably in the color of the sound: it turns out to be less expressive, but more dense and rich, making it excellent for playing “overload” (distortion, overdrive, etc.). A classic pickup of this type has two coils positioned side by side, making it noticeably wider than a single coil; and Standard class humbuckers generally look like two single coils installed close to each other. However, in addition to this, there are other design options - for example, a hamcanseller..., which has coils “on two levels” and is comparable in width to a single. Also note that there are humbuckers that can switch to single-coil mode (see “Coil Cutoff” for more details).

—J. A subtype of S-type pickups with one coil and an additional pole for each string. This variety first appeared on the legendary Fender Jazz Bass. J pickups have a versatile sound that suits almost any style of music.

—P. P pickups have two magnetized poles per string, but they have a unique feature: they are cut in half and wound in reverse. The advantage of this winding is the humbucker effect (see type “H”). The wide and long shape of the P pickup provides powerful and punchy sound in genres such as rock, metal, punk, etc.

- P90. A special type of single-spool single with a wider but shorter bobbin. These pickups are installed in the bridge or neck area of the guitar. Their distinctive feature is a characteristic “rock and roll” sound with warm, soft and rich timbres. Instruments with P90 pickups are often used in alternative rock, blues, indie, etc. styles.

The pickup diagram describes their types, number and relative positions. Our catalog uses a bridge-to-neck designation: for example, an HSS design means the guitar has one humbucker at the bridge and two single-coils near the neck.

This parameter determines, first of all, the overall color of the instrument’s sound. Thus, the above version of HSS will produce a sound that is quite clean and expressive, but at the same time a little denser and lower than on a purely “single-coil” electric guitar. There are many models available that are equipped with only one type of pickups. Moreover, the more pickups, the deeper and richer the sound, as a rule. In addition to all this, many other factors affect the sound of the instrument, so when choosing, you should not look only at the pickup circuit.

The number of tone controls provided in the design of an electric guitar.

One tone control is responsible for the sound of the electric guitar as a whole; but if there are several such pens, they can have different formats of work. So, each knob can be responsible either for its own pickup, or for a separate frequency band. In the second case, a set of knobs plays the role of an equalizer that allows you to adjust the sound by changing the volume of low and high (sometimes even separately middle) frequencies.

Anyway, the presence of several tone controls expands the possibilities for changing the coloring of the sound by means of the guitar itself, without the use of additional equipment.

The material from which the body of an electric guitar is made. For models with cutouts (semi-acoustic, see "Type"), in this case, only the material of the back deck and sides can be taken into account, and data on the top deck is given separately (for more details, see "Deck Cover Material").

Now on the market there are cases of such trees: red, maple, agatis, ash, alder.

It makes no sense to dwell on each of the materials found in modern electric guitars. Their variety is very large, however, unlike acoustic guitars, the body in this case does not play such a significant role in shaping the sound, and its material has a relatively small effect on the acoustic properties of the instrument (although the exact degree of such influence is a moot point). If you wish, you can find detailed data on a particular material in special sources, but in fact it makes sense to look primarily at the appearance of the instrument and its price category.

The fret is the gap between the nut on the fretboard; each such interval is responsible for its own note (the interval between the frets is half a tone). Accordingly, the more frets, the more notes you can play on one string. However, keep in mind that the width of the gaps between the nut decreases as you get closer to the bridge, and if there are a lot of frets, playing at high frets can be difficult, requiring very high accuracy.

The most popular options today are 22 or 24 frets, they are found in most electric guitars of all types. In basses, there are also a smaller number ( 20 frets and 21 frets), because. the distance between the nut on such instruments is greater, and the necks, respectively, with the same number of frets, are longer than those of guitars.

In general, paying attention to this parameter makes sense, first of all, for professional musicians, for whom a vast “space for manoeuvre” is fundamentally important.

A separate category is fretless instruments, completely devoid of nut. Almost all of them relate to bass guitars; there are also electric guitars without frets, but very rarely. In such instruments, the role of the nut is played by the musician's finger, which presses the string to the fretboard. The technique of playing fretless guitars is noticeably mor...e complicated: firstly, to extract clean notes, you need a very precise position of the finger; secondly, this design reduces the volume of the sound and the duration of the sustain, and special playing techniques may be required to obtain the sound of the desired volume (and heavier strings for basses). On the other hand, the lack of frets gives the professional musician a number of additional options. For example, on a fretless neck, you can make very smooth slides, without stepping between notes, and the instrument itself is not tied to a standard 12-step scale, which can be very useful in some areas of music (experimental, oriental, etc.). Also note that the fretless bass guitar, both in sound and playing technique, is very close to the classical double bass, which is especially appreciated by lovers of jazz and other similar styles.

The width of the fretboard of an electric guitar at the nut. Closer to the body, the neck may expand somewhat, but this is not necessary, and the expansion angle may be different. Therefore, the main size is considered to be the width in the region of the nut.

This parameter has two meanings. On the one hand, a wide neck is inconvenient for musicians with small hands and short fingers — it can be difficult to reach the far strings in such cases. On the other hand, a larger width means a greater distance between the individual strings, which reduces the likelihood of hitting an adjacent string when pressed incorrectly and can make playing easier (especially if the guitarist has large fat fingers). However, these moments are not absolute, and the convenience of playing is a very subjective matter, depending on many features of the musician and the technique he uses. Also, don't forget that necks can have different profiles (see above), and instruments with different neck profiles will feel differently in the hands even with the same width at the nut. Therefore, the most reliable method of selection is to try out the necks of different sizes and profiles “live”, decide on the best option and choose based on this.

The smallest neck width at the nut in modern electric guitars is about 39 mm. This size is found mainly in bass guitars (see “Type”), which have 4 strings and a neck that widens noticeably towards the body (due to which it can be made rather narr...ow from above, especially since when playing bass, notes are rarely clamped near the neck itself) . Electric guitars (including semi-acoustic) are somewhat wider — from 41 mm, an indicator of 43 – 48 mm is considered average, and in the largest instruments, the neck can be up to 55 mm wide (however, such dimensions are typical mainly for instruments with more than 6 strings) .

The radius of curvature of a fretboard mounted on the fretboard of an electric guitar.

The fingerboard is located directly under the strings, it is to it that the musician presses the strings when playing. If you look at the neck in cross section, its upper part with the overlay will have the shape of an arc; the radius of this arc is implied in this case. The smaller the radius, the more convex this arc will be, and vice versa, a large radius will correspond to an almost flat surface.

In general, it is believed that a smaller fingerboard radius is better for playing chords, and a more even, flat surface makes it easier to play technical passages with an abundance of special techniques such as bands. The average and, one might say, classic diameter value is 12", this is the most popular option among modern electric guitars. The smallest figure is just over 7", it is found in some guitars with Stratocaster bodies (both original Fender instruments and copies ). And the most flat pads have a diameter of 20" or more.

Note that there are often instruments with a variable fretboard radius — smaller at the headstock (where chords are played more often) and larger near the body (where solos are played by notes). In such cases, the radius at the nut is indicated.

The material from which the fretboard of an electric guitar is made.

The fretboard is placed under the strings, where the strings are pressed when played. The need to use overlays is due to the fact that the types of wood from which the fingerboard itself is made are often not hard enough, and dents could occur on their surface from constant contact with the strings. Accordingly, the overlays are made of a harder material that retains the shape of the surface even after repeated pressing of the strings. As such a material, both special types of wood ( ebony, rosewood) and high-quality phenolic polymers can be used.

In general, the quality of the fingerboard is usually quite consistent with the price category of the instrument, but it hardly makes sense to dwell on the detailed characteristics of each material (they are not so critical for the normal use of an electric guitar). We only note that the material of the overlay directly affects the appearance of the instrument.