Number of stones
The number
of stones provided in the design of the watch.
This parameter is relevant for models that have arrows and corresponding moving parts in the "stuffing" (wheels, gears, etc.). The stones in this case are, in fact, a specific kind of bearings used to fasten rotating parts. "Stones" are made from synthetic minerals (for example, artificial sapphires). They provide slightly less friction than traditional metal bearings, and most importantly, they are more reliable and less prone to wear, which accordingly affects the durability of the entire mechanism. However, it is worth noting here that these advantages are relevant mainly for mechanical watches (see “Mechanism type”), quartz models in this sense are not so demanding on bearings.
It is believed that the more stones, the better, but here it is worth considering the functionality of the device. So, for a watch with a central second hand, 16 jewels are considered sufficient, with a side one - 17, but if there are additional functions (calendar, days of the week, etc.), this number can increase accordingly. In addition, the presence of 40 or more stones is often not so much a real necessity as a publicity stunt.
Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Power reserve
The amount of time that the watch is able to operate normally without winding the spring or changing/recharging the battery (for more details, see "Power source"). Modern mechanical watches (see “Movement type”) have a standard power reserve of 40+/-5 hours. However, this parameter is usually indicated for the simplest mode of operation, without the use of additional functions such as a
chronograph(see “Functions / Capabilities” ), which also “eat up” the plant. Thus, such a watch is supposed to be wound every day, but nothing will happen if you miss the usual time and remember to wind it a few hours later than usual.
In turn, for quartz watches, the power reserve is often not indicated in the specifications. This is due to the fact that this parameter, firstly, is quite large compared to mechanical models (it would be measured in tens of days rather than hours), and secondly, it strongly depends on a number of external factors (for example, the quality of the next batteries). Therefore, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to reliably determine the power reserve in such cases.
Dial colour
Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.
The most popular in modern watches are
black,
white,
silver and
blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular,
beige,
yellow,
green,
golden,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
grey and
purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).
Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.
Colour
The main colour of the watch case.
Modern watches are quite diverse in colour options. The most widespread models are in shades of "
stainless steel ",
golden and
black ; however, in addition to this, on the market you can find, in particular,
white,
yellow,
green,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue and
purple cases.
In general, the colour of the case is a fairly obvious parameter; Let's note only some of the nuances associated with marking:
— Multi-coloured models include models in which there is no clearly defined primary colour. If there is such a colour, it is indicated in the characteristics. And for two-tone cases, an additional colour can be specified, for example, "stainless steel
with gold " or "black
with blue "
— Silver, among other things, are plastic cases without additional coloring.
— "Stainless steel" in this case is a colour, not a material; other metals (e.g. alumin
...ium and titanium) that are not complemented by PVD coating (see “Case Coating”) may have this shade. And the cases of gold watches, in turn, are not necessarily made of gold — red and white gold are also used in jewelry.
— Camouflage coloring is indicated separately — such watches are designated as "military", and here, again, the main shade of the coloring is given. However, not every military model has camouflage on the body; see below for details.Rotating bezel
The rotating bezel is a swivel ring around the dial, with marks applied to it (ring).
Usually the bezel scale is similar to the minute/second scale of the dial, it is marked from 0 to 60, most often with marks every 5 or every 10 minutes (seconds). In such cases, this function is a somewhat simplified analogue of the timer or stopwatch / chronograph used in watches with analogue dials. To work in the stopwatch mode, you need to align the zero on the bezel with the position of the second or minute hand (depending on how long the period needs to be detected), and at the end of the measurement, look at what division on the bezel this hand has reached. To work in the timer mode, zero on the rotary scale is set at the end of the countdown, and the user can only monitor whether the arrow has reached zero. Thus, you can turn the watch into a timer or stopwatch mode with just one turn of the ring — it's faster and more convenient than digging into the settings. Such features are appreciated, in particular, by scuba divers who use a timer to control air supplies; at the same time, in diving watches, the rotation mechanism is often made one-sided, so that the bezel cannot be accidentally turned in the direction of increasing the remaining time.
There are other types of rotating bezels — for example, in the form of a scale with cardinal points used in watches with a
compass.
Screw-down crown
The crown (or the crown of the hands, if the watch is quartz), which is fixed on a special thread during non-working hours. Accordingly, for use for its main purpose, such a head must first be unscrewed, and only then it can be rotated.
The screw design serves two main functions. Firstly, it does not allow the head to move in case of accidental contact with surrounding objects (whereas a conventional head can be hooked and rotated in case of an unsuccessful hand movement, knocking down the position of the arrows). Secondly, the head fixed on the thread plays the role of a protective cap covering the gap between the axle and the body - this improves moisture protection.
Diameter (width)
The nominal size of a watch case in diameter (for round cases) or width (for other options, see "Case Shape"). In the most miniature modern models, this size is
21 – 25 mm or even
less, among the largest there are cases of
46 – 50 mm and even
larger.
Larger watches are more convenient in the sense that the dial readings are better visible on them, and it is easier to provide various additional functions in the design. On the other hand, small watches look neater and create less discomfort directly when worn. In addition, female models (see "Gender") are traditionally made more miniature than male ones. So the choice for this indicator depends mainly on the intended specifics of the application: for example, large cases are best suited for outdoor activities and tourism, about
41 – 45 mm in size, for household wear (regardless of gender) — about
31 – 35 mm, and as an accessory to an evening dress, a small watch of
30 mm or less would be more appropriate.
Also note that the size of a compatible strap/bracelet is associated with this indicator — see "Strap Width" for details.