The ability
to change the speed of the self-propelled unit (see "Features"). In the absence of this function, you need to pay special attention to the maximum speed, since "non-adjustable" lawnmowers have, in fact, two modes — parking and full speed. But if there is an adjustment, you can adjust the speed of movement to the specifics of the situation. For example, slow motion will be the best mode for dense, long-term uncut grass (or if the operator for some reason cannot follow the mower quickly); and high speed will allow you to quickly cope with a large volume of relatively simple work.
The diameter of the front wheels of the unit. For more information about this parameter, see "Rear wheel diameter" — everything written there is true in this case. We only note that the front wheels relatively rarely have their own drive, so the diameter for them is not as important as for the rear ones.
The diameter of the rear wheels of the unit.
Larger wheels, on the one hand, increase cross-country ability and allow you to effectively overcome pits, bumps and other obstacles on rough terrain. On the other hand, they cost more, are more expensive, and in self-propelled models, they also require more traction from the engine.
This indicator is often determined by the type of lawn mower (see above). So, mowers and riders, by definition, have large wheels, because they are designed for difficult terrain, and in a minitractor, the wheels must also withstand a fairly significant weight. But
robotic lawn mowers, on the contrary, are used mainly on flat surfaces with low grass, and they do not need large wheels.
If you have to choose among classic lawn mowers, where this parameter can be different, you should proceed from the planned working conditions. So, if we are talking about a flat lawn — you can not pay much attention to this indicator; but for rough terrain with pits, tubercles, ditches, etc., you should choose larger wheels — from 25 cm or more.