Comparison Janome 210D vs Janome My Excel W23U

The type of sewing machine determines its functionality and specific application.

— Electromechanical. The classic, most simple kind of sewing machines: they do not have computer control, all work parameters are adjusted mechanically, and the use is limited to the simplest types of seams.

— Computerized. Sewing machines are equipped with built-in computers that control the sewing process. Because of this, they have a more extensive feature set and are more accurate in settings than electromechanical ones, although they cost accordingly. Note that only computerized sewing machines are meant; embroidery and sewing-embroidery machines are separated into separate categories (see relevant paragraphs).

— Embroidery. Such machines were originally intended only for embroidering patterns, and are practically not suitable for work outside this specialization (ordinary sewing, hemming). They have the appropriate design features, are equipped with embroidery hoops and feet for embroidery, are often equipped with both a set of built-in presets (for example, embroidering letters of the alphabet), and can connect to a PC and download patterns.

— Sewing and embroidery. Machines that can be used for both sewing and embroidery. In terms of design and sewing capabilities, they are similar to computerized models (see t...he relevant paragraph) but are supplemented with an embroidery unit, hoops and other embroidery equipment. And the built-in features usually include basic embroidery elements (crosses, stars, satin stitch, etc.), as well as the ability to embroider according to patterns downloaded from a computer. Such machines are very versatile, but in terms of specific capabilities, they may be inferior to more specialized models.

— Overlocker. A special type of sewing machine designed primarily for seaming and trimming the edges of materials. Overlocker overcasts the edge of the fabric with a special seam, which prevents fraying, shedding and deformation. One of the design features of such devices is the presence of several working threads, from 2 to 10 (most often 3 or 4).

— Coverstitch. Devices designed to create cover stitch — a flat, stretchy seam that is most commonly used for hemming a folded edge in knitwear, as well as in some types of joins. For other purposes, such machines are not used.

— Coverlock. Devices that combine an overlocker and a coverstitch machine in one case. For more information about each of these varieties, see the relevant paragraph. Here we note that the coverlock is a universal tool for processing edges: it can overcast them, cut off the excess fabric and hem the folded edge with a cover stitch. In addition, many modern coverlock are also capable of seaming materials (mainly with a double chain stitch).

The type of sewing machine shuttle.

The shuttle is a device for feeding the lower thread. It is in it that the spool with the thread is inserted. In modern machines there are such types of shuttles:

— Oscillating . Oscillating shuttles have only a vertical layout. It is a simple, inexpensive and at the same time reliable mechanism, which also makes the device practically “omnivorous”: many models with oscillating shuttles can cope with thick coarse fabrics that are “too tough” for other types of machines. In addition, in such a shuttle, the method of thread tension is very simply regulated. Among the disadvantages of this option, it is worth noting an increased level of vibration and noise, a relatively low speed, as well as a more complicated threading procedure than in horizontal shuttles.

— Vertical rotary. In several features, such shuttles are similar to oscillating ones (see the relevant paragraph): in particular, they are relatively easy to adjust the thread tension, but to refill the bobbin, you must always climb into the mechanism and remove the bobbin case from the shuttle. The key difference is that the shuttle does not swing during operation, but rotates. Because of this, such mechanisms are somewhat more complicated and more expensive than oscillating ones. However, they provide a higher sewing speed with a lower level of vibration and noise. This option is used...in professional and semi-professional machines, as well as industrial equipment.

— Horizontal rotary. The shuttle of this type is easy to use: to thread the lower thread, one does not need to remove the bobbin case, just open the cover and install the bobbin directly into the hook. In addition, the top cover is often made transparent, which allows you to keep track of the rest of the bottom thread. At the same time, due to the rotational principle of operation, such a shuttle provides good speed and a minimum level of vibration and noise. Among the disadvantages of this option, one can note the difficulty in setting the thread tension: for this, usually, you have to unscrew a few bolts and remove the entire shuttle(whereas in vertical mechanisms the regulator is located on a quickly removed bobbin head). In addition, horizontal shuttles are not well suited for continuous sewing with coarse threads — such a thread can rub a groove in the case, after which the mechanism will have to be changed.

The method of loop formation supported by the machine.

- Automatic. Fully automatic loop formation; the user only needs to set the length, after which the machine will independently process the edges of the future loop, without the need to switch modes manually. The most convenient and advanced option; is the automatic method that is recommended if it is planned to overcast numerous loops.

- Semi-automatic. When forming a loop in this way, work is done in 2 or 4 steps. For example, in the first case, the machine makes one short bartack and one long longitudinal line in one pass, then the mode switches and the second bartack and the second long line are performed; in the second case, respectively, you have to switch between 4 stages. Such work takes more time than the automatic formation of loops, but such machines are cheaper.

The number of stitches that a sewing machine can sew. The larger this number, the more extensive the capabilities of this model, the wider the choice the user has; however, it wouldn’t hurt to clarify the specific range of supported stitches separately.

The fewest options - mostly up to 25 - are provided in electromechanical machines, as well as specialized devices such as overlockers and carpet lockers (see “Type”). In computer-controlled devices, the number of lines can be in the dozens, and some also allow you to download additional options from the computer.

The maximum stitch length that the sewing machine can sew. This parameter is important for working with dense thick fabrics: the stronger the fabric, the longer the seam used for it. Accordingly, the longer the stitch ( 5 mm or more), the better the machine is suitable for working with similar fabrics.

The maximum stitch width provided by a sewing machine.

Most modern sewing machines are capable of working not only with the simplest longitudinal seam (when punctures with a needle occur strictly one after another), but also with seams that cover a certain width - for example, zigzag and various decorative ones. And in overlockers, such opportunities are generally available by definition.

The larger the maximum stitch width, the correspondingly wider the machine’s ability to work with specific types of seams (all other things being equal). An indicator of up to 5 mm is typical mainly for entry-level devices, 5 - 7 mm - average, 7 mm and more - advanced.

— Alphabet letter embroidery. The ability to embroider letters of the alphabet using a machine. This function is found in computerized models. It is carried out due to a set of letters entered into the memory of the machine. Many models with this feature have several built-in fonts, and some even allow you to upload your fonts from your computer.

— Differential bottom feed. The fabric feed consists of two gear racks — in front of and behind the needle. Depending on the set mode, such a feed can additionally stretch or, conversely, collect fabric during sewing; the first is useful when working with dense fabrics, the second — for knitwear, stretch and other easily stretching materials.

— Reverse stitching. A function that allows you to switch the direction of movement of the fabric under the needle and, accordingly, the direction of the seam. Mainly used for stitching. The reverse is practically obligatory for sewing machines in the classical sense of the word — electromechanical, computerized and sewing-embroidery (see "Type"), but practically does not occur in other types.

— Free arm. A device for working with sleeves, trousers and other similar parts of clothing. This function is most often implemented due to the removable part of the desktop — when it is removed, the table turns into a narrow platform. The specific width of such a device ma...y be different, it should be specified separately.

— Needle threader. A special device designed to facilitate the process of threading a needle. The presence of a needle threader is especially useful when changing threads frequently (for example, sewing alternately with different colours).

— Thread cutter. A mechanism for cutting the threads after sewing, eliminating the need to use scissors: to cut the thread, just press the button. Note that we are talking about an automatic thread cutter; hand tools mounted on the bodies of some machines are not considered thread cutters in this case.

— Pedal free sewing. The ability to use the machine without connecting the pedal. To start and stop the process in such models, usually, a special button is provided. Such an opportunity can be useful for long sewing when it would be tiring to keep the pedal constantly depressed, and for occasional use, when the machine starts “for a couple of stitches” and there is no need to fiddle with connecting the pedal.

— Twin needle sewing. The possibility of using a machine for sewing with a twin needle — a pair of needles fixed in one holder. There are different types of such needles and different methods of working with them, and some work is done only with a double needle. Anyway, the use of such devices requires that the machine be initially compatible with them.

— Needle stop switch (top/bottom). A switch that allows the user to select whether the needle will be in the up or down position after the motor stops. In the absence of such a switch, the needle, usually, stops only in the upper position, and this is not always convenient

— Presser foot pressure adjustment. The ability to change the degree of pressure of the foot on the fabric, adjusting it to the thickness of the material: for thin fabrics (chiffon, knitwear), the pressure should be small, for thick ones — on the contrary.

— Thread tension regulator. A device that allows you to adjust the degree of tension of the upper thread. A mismatch in tension between the top and bottom threads causes one of the threads to pull the other and the seam deteriorates. To avoid this phenomenon, this function is provided. Note that tension adjustment is also possible for the lower thread — it is carried out through the shuttle (all shuttles have this option). But for this, it is necessary to remove the bobbin case or even the entire shuttle. The top regulator is located directly on the body of the machine, and it is much easier to use it.

— Puncture force stabilizer. A device that provides a stable puncture force regardless of the engine speed. A feature of the mechanics of electric motors is that without special adjustment, the puncture force decreases markedly with an increase in speed. This function allows you to maintain approximately the same level over the entire speed range, which has a positive effect on the quality of work.

— Feed shutdown. Possibility to turn off the bottom feed of the...machine. This feature is indispensable for work in which the fabric needs to be shifted manually — for example, embroidering along a complex contour on a typewriter without an embroidery unit, sewing on buttons, etc.

— Speed control. The ability to set a speed limit for the machine. Thanks to this function, you can not be afraid to "squeeze" the pedal — even with strong pressure, the machine will work at a given speed, and no faster. This feature is useful, in particular, in jobs where you need to carefully control the process.

— Knee lever. A device that allows you to raise the presser foot and lower the lower feed dog with a knee movement without removing your hands from the fabric. Such a device is useful for quilting and some types of embroidery.

Types of presser feet supplied with the sewing machine.

— Universal foot. A foot is used for standard sewing, mainly straight stitches and zigzags.

— Overlock foot. A foot designed for overlocking. By definition, it is found in devices with an overlock function (see “Type”). However, it can also be provided in traditional sewing machines. In the latter case, such a foot, of course, will not replace a full-fledged overlocker, but in some situations it allows you to work without it.

— Top feed or walking foot. An additional top-mounted feed dog in place of the stock foot, in addition to the standard bottom feed dog. Such a device makes it easier to work with thin, delicate and sliding fabrics, as well as sewing together several layers of fabric: the material moves as evenly as possible, without distortions and displacements.

— Zipper foot. The foot for sewing in a zipper can have a different size and design — in particular, there are special devices for sewing in a hidden zipper. The specific features of this device should be clarified separately.

— Decorative stitch foot. Feet designed for various types of decorative stitching. Such a line may not have a functional role. Its main task is to emphasize a certain element of clothing (edges, pockets, individual seams, etc.). Anyway, the stit...ch line should usually strictly follow the contour along which it is applied — and this contour can consist of both straight lines and curved lines. Special feet for decorative stitching simplify the task: they are equipped with rulers or other devices that allow you to control the parallelism of the stitches.

— Satin stitch foot. This foot will be suitable for appliqué and other work where zigzag stitches are often used.

— Blind hem foot. Foot designed for blind seams used when hemming the edge of the fabric. It is equipped with a device that provides a hem of the fabric and in this position feeds it under the needle.

— Quilting foot. Special feet for quilting — patchwork. In such works, it is necessary to sew the fabric in several layers, as well as to perform figured seams. In extreme cases, you can use the usual universal foot for quilting, but using a special device is still much more convenient.

— Monogramming foot. The foot for embroidery of monograms will allow you to make embroidery on any object, thereby decorating it with your signature or the emblem of any institution, company, or sports club.

— Buttonhole foot. Buttonhole foot. It eliminates the need for manual work. The sewing machine will do everything for you, which will reduce your time and please you with quality.

— Button sewing foot. A foot is designed to hold the button on the fabric while sewing on. It has a special protrusion pointing down: when the main part of the foot is pressed against the button, this protrusion presses the fabric and prevents it from slipping.

In addition to the above, other types of feet may be included in the delivery kit.