Max weight
The maximum load allowed for a bicycle is, in other words, the maximum weight that it can normally carry in normal use. Of course, when calculating the load, the weight of both the cyclist himself and the additional load that he carries with him is taken into account.
The permissible load must definitely not be exceeded: even if the bike does not break down immediately, off-design loads can weaken the structure, and an accident can occur at any time. Also note that it is desirable to have a certain weight margin — at least 15 – 20 kg: this can be useful in case of transporting heavy loads and will give an additional guarantee in emergency situations (for example, when a wheel gets into a pit). Considering that the average weight of an adult is about 70 – 80 kg, bicycles with a permissible load
of up to 100 kg can be classified as "lightweights",
from 100 to 120 kg — to the middle category,
more than 120 kg — to "heavy trucks".
Frame size
Frame size refers to the distance from the saddle attachment point to the bottom bracket attachment point (axles with gears and pedals). The main parameters that determine the choice of a bike for frame size are the height of the user, the purpose of the bike and the intended riding style.It is also worth considering the
female frame, which is lowered, which allows you to ride comfortably even in a skirt or dress.
User height is the most significant factor. In general, the taller the user, the larger the frame should be. The universal formula that allows you to calculate a specific size is as follows: the length of the leg from the groin to the heel in centimeters must be multiplied by 0.6, and then divided by 2.5 — you get the approximate size of the frame in inches. But in the characteristics of brands, the frame can also be indicated in the usual form for measuring size
XXS,
XS,
S,
M,
L,
XL and
XXL.
However, note that this value is very arbitrary and approximate, it can only be used for simple bicycles not intended for extreme driving (for example, city bikes, see "Destination"). If you choose a more specialized model (mountain, road, BMX) — it is better to refer to the tables for th
...e appropriate type, because. sizes for one height can vary significantly depending on the destination. In addition, different manufacturers have different frame geometry and measurement methods, and therefore, for the most accurate selection, it is recommended to use the manufacturers' own tables.
Note that the optimal frame size is not absolute — in most cases, for the same height, “neighboring” sizes are quite suitable. And here it is worth paying attention to the intended driving style. It is believed that small, well-controlled frames are better suited for extreme variant, and larger and more stable ones are better suited for long-term calm movement.Fork travel
Front fork travel on bicycles with damped suspension (see "Suspension"). Roughly speaking, the travel of a fork is the maximum distance that its size can be reduced by compression during shock absorption. The longer the fork travel, the better the shock absorption and “soft” ride it provides, but not all bikes require a lot of travel. Even within the same type (see “Purpose”), depending on the specific application and riding style, the optimal fork travel will be different — for example,
freeride mountain bikes need good shock absorption, and for cross-country, on the contrary, a long fork travel will be redundant.
In general, if you do not plan on extreme cross-country riding or doing cycling tricks, this parameter is not critical. However, when choosing a bike for serious cycling, it is worth checking the recommended fork travel values (according to specialized literature or from professionals) and making sure that the desired model corresponds to them.
Fork material
— Aluminium. In this case, aluminium is the simplest and most unpretentious option. Its advantages include light weight; on the other hand, in the absence of shock absorption, the steering wheel with such a fork is highly susceptible to vibrations, and in terms of durability, aluminium is somewhat inferior to steel.
— Steel. Another relatively simple option, which at the same time is considered more advanced than the aluminium described above, and is found even in fairly expensive pro-level bikes. This is due to the fact that steel is noticeably stronger and more durable, as it is not as susceptible to "metal fatigue". However such forks weigh a little more than aluminium ones.
— Chromium molybdenum steel. A type of steel that is more advanced than more traditional grades. Among the main advantages of such alloys are high strength and reliability; at the same time, due to such properties, individual elements of the forks can be made thinner, and the forks themselves can be made lighter than ordinary steel ones. The main disadvantage of Cro-Mo steel is the rather high cost.
— Carbon. Lightweight and high-strength carbon fibre forks effectively dampen small bumps in the road under the wheels of the bike and slightly spring on small potholes, thereby providing cushioning on bumpy roads. The carbon fork facilitates the design of the front of the bike. Most often it is found on board "highways" and "gravel roads", less often it is installed in o
...ff-road fatbikes. Vulnerable point — carbon forks break under the influence of strong point impacts.Wheel size
The nominal diameter of the bicycle wheels. Usually, this paragraph actually indicates the size of the bicycle tyres supplied in the kit, more precisely, the outer diameter of the tyres.
Wheel diameter is traditionally indicated in inches. For bicycles of different purposes and age groups (see paragraphs above), there are certain size standards. So, adult mountain models are equipped mainly with
26 " wheels, "road" and urban ones — with a slightly larger diameter (mostly
28 "), and BMX for the most part — much smaller; children's and teens' bikes have smaller wheels than similar adults' bikes.
Other things being equal, larger tyres hold speed better and work out small bumps on the road; and relatively small wheels are more “sticky”, they provide more torque and better traction. This is the reason for the above-described difference in wheel sizes between bicycles for different purposes. Such nuances will be useful if you choose a car from several models with similar characteristics, but different wheel diameters. Here it is worth considering the features of the planned application. For example, for urban and "road" driving — on a hard surface without any special irregularities and elevation changes — it is better to choose larger wheels, and for dirt roads with ups and downs — smaller ones.
Also note that tyres are replaceable, and many bikes allow the installation of tyres of
...a “non-native” size — for example, 29 "on a model with 28-inch wheels. It is also worth considering that wheels (tyres) of the same size may differ in inner (landing) diameter These nuances are described in detail in special sources.Tyre
Tyre model supplied with the bike as standard. Different tyres have different purposes and characteristics; knowing the tyre model, you can clarify these points and check how they correspond to your wishes. This is especially important when choosing a machine for serious cycling.
