Comparison Slamm Assault III vs Tempish Gang

The maximum weight of the rider that the design of the scooter can withstand without breakdowns and accidents. This point is partly determined by the age group, and mainly by the materials used in the frame (both points below). Note that manufacturers can indicate the maximum load for perfect conditions — when the scooter rides on a perfectly flat surface or even stands still. Therefore, it is worth choosing a model for this parameter with a certain margin; this is especially important for varieties designed for increased loads, in particular scooters and stunt models (see "product type"). Even more so, you should not exceed the weight indicated in the characteristics — even if the scooter does not break down immediately, this can happen at any time after, which is fraught with accidents and injuries.

The minimum age at which a child can be entrusted with a scooter. These recommendations are quite approximate, but it is highly not recommended to deviate from them. In the case of electric scooters (see "Type"), it is worth considering that in some countries, to control such devices, you need rights obtained from a certain age; so when buying a similar model, it's ok to clarify the requirements of traffic rules.

The allowable load directly depends on the age group; according to this criterion, modern scooters can be divided into children's(permissible load up to 50 kg), teenage(from 50 to 80 kg), and adults(80 kg or more).

— T-bar. A traditional scooter handlebar in the form of a horizontal crossbar on a vertical bar. It is found in almost all types of scooters. Note that in kickboards such a steering wheel usually needs to be tilted rather than turned.

— Bike handlebar. The handlebar has a characteristic curved shape, in which the handles are bent back or moved upward relative to the middle. It is considered more convenient than the classic one, but it is more complex in design and costs more, and the difference in convenience is not so often noticeable. Therefore, this option is found much less frequently, mainly in fairly advanced models — in particular, most bicycle scooters are equipped with just such handlebars.

— Round handle. The handlebar is in the form of a ring or a pair of rings (a kind of “ears”) mounted on a vertical rod; There are also options without a top ring at all, in which the rod ends with a round knob. In any case, this design is used in models where the handlebar does not turn, but tilts from side to side — these can be either kickboards or some specific trikes (see “Type”).

— Y-bar. A handlebar with a bend in the top tube in the shape of the letter Y. Often in such handlebars, side supports are used to strengthen the structure, due to which Y-shaped handlebars are considered more durable in comparison with classic T-bars.

...— Bat-Wing. The shape of the Bat-Wing resembles Y-shaped rudders, but in the upper segment of this version, there is a special horizontal crossbar to strengthen the structure. Bat-Wing handlebars can withstand heavy loads and are installed primarily on stunt scooters.

— 2 bolts. 2-bolt clamp — such clamps are typical for entry-class scooters. A 2-bolt clamp usually connects steering elements in city scooters. M8 threaded fasteners are most often used as bolts. The 2-bolt connection is ill-suited to resist loose fasteners.

— 3 bolts. Clamp for 3 bolts — this clamp allows you to more or less securely fix the steering elements. Scooters with a 3-bolt clamp are usually considered stunt scooters but belong to the entry-level class. The 3-bolt fastening allows the clamp to prevent loosening in the connection.

— 4 bolts. 4 bolt clamp — this category of clamps is typical for good stunt scooters. Such a connection allows you to securely fix the steering elements. The presence of 4 fixation points allows the connection to resist loosening well, and the bolts in such clamps are slightly subject to self-loosening.

— 5 bolts. The 5-bolt clamp is a quality clamping solution found on advanced stunt scooters. The presence of 5 fixation points allows you to securely fix the steering wheel in the desired position. The 5-bolt clamp will not allow play to appear in the connection. Such clamps can maintain the degree of tightening of fasteners even under high-vibration loads.

Compression is a special device that connects the fork to the steering speaker. Thanks to the compression, the rigidity and reliability of the connection of the steering speaker to the fork are ensured.

— IHC. Suitable for scooters with standard diameter handlebars: 31.8mm or 1¼". This type of compression is simple in design and highly reliable. The IHC system consists of a tie bolt and an anchor. The steering wheel is connected to the compression with a clamp.

— HIC(Hidden Compression System) — this type of compression is found in scooters with a handlebar of increased diameter: 34.9 mm or 1⅜". HIC compression is widely used due to the reliability and simplicity of the design solution. The steering speaker is used with a kerf Steering clamp is applied to the steering speaker HIC compression is identical to the IHC design The only difference between the two is the rudder diameter HIC is designed for 34.9mm headsets while IHC applies to headsets 31.8 mm in diameter.

— SCS(Standart Compression System) — advanced class compression. To use the SCS, you need a scooter with a non-kerf steering speaker. A distinctive feature of the SCS compression is the use of a 4-bolt tie-down collar. The compression pinch bolt is screwed in from top to bottom. The steering speaker is put on from above. SCS compression is created under the handlebars of di...fferent diameters: 34.9 or 31.8 mm. Structurally, SCS compression is similar to HIC. The key difference between these types of compression is for the most part only in the cut on the steering speaker. The SCS does not have a kerf, but the HIC does.

— ICS(Inverted Compression System) — simple and reliable compression. The system is represented by a coupling bolt, which is screwed in from the bottom up, through the front wheels. The anchor is usually built into the fork at the factory. But in some cases, the anchor must be hammered into the fork yourself. When working with compression, there are usually several difficulties. The first is that you need a special long key to work with fasteners. The second trick is expressed in the need to remove the front wheels every time the compression is tightened.

— Tread. Threading is the simplest method of connecting a steering speaker to a fork. This type of compression is typical for entry-level scooters. Scooters with threaded compression are positioned as urban models. Such scooters are not physically adapted to the impact of high mechanical loads.

The diameter of the front wheel(s) of the scooter.

This parameter is selected by the manufacturer depending on the type, age category and general purpose of the scooter. If we compare similar models with different wheel diameters, then it is worth considering that the larger the wheels, the better they work on the bumps in the road, and the higher the cross-country ability. And small wheels, in turn, are great for smooth asphalt and dynamic driving, they easily accelerate and allow you to make sharp turns.

The diameter of the rear wheel(s) of the scooter. See "Front wheel diameter" for details on the value of this parameter.

The rigidity of the wheels supplied in the scooter

The higher the number given in this parameter, the harder materials are used in the design of the wheels and the stiffer they are. Stiff wheels easier roll on different surfaces, it is easier to accelerate on them, they allow you to more accurately feel the surface under your feet and do not wear out as quickly as soft ones; on the other hand, these wheels have less traction, are more prone to vibrations and bumps, and require extra care when cornering. Therefore, wheels with high rigidity are typical mainly for professional models, and soft options are recommended for beginner riders.

Note that most scooters allow wheel replacement; this procedure is mandatory from time to time since the wheels tend to wear out. However, if necessary, you can also change a kit that is quite suitable for riding — to a harder one, or vice versa, a softer one

— 82A. Wheels with a hardness of 82A are optimal for urban scooters. This level of stiffness provides the wheels with good strength, while the wheels tenaciously contact the rolling surface. Such scooters are poorly suited for stunt riding.

— 84A. Wheels with a hardness of 84A are considered universal. These can be found both in city scooters and models for stunt riding. Rigidity at the level of 84A gives the wheels a good level of strength. Such scooters are still able to "softly" contact with the surface of the roll, but the rider will al...ready feel "hard feedback" when hitting bumps.

— 85A Wheels with a hardness of 85A are more related to stunt scooters. This level of rigidity provides the wheels with a good level of strength, but due to the increased rigidity, the soft contact of the wheels with the rolling surface is lost. If the scooter does not have suspension, the stiffness of the wheels will recoil into the platform and steering rack when hitting bumps.

— 86A. Wheels with a hardness of 86A are used in scooters for sports and stunt riding. Rigidity at the level of 86A is considered increased. Scooters with such wheels are usually designed for fairly high loads. Such wheels transmit impact and vibration to the scooter. Scooters without their shock absorption make riding on such hard wheels less comfortable. But at the same time, as the strength characteristics of the wheels increase, the chassis becomes more reliable and durable.

— 88A. Wheels with a hardness of 88A are found in stunt scooters. They are distinguished by increased strength characteristics. Due to the high rigidity of the wheels, they can easily withstand driving on any type of rolling surface. On the other hand, riding on 88A wheels provides very strong feedback to the platform and steering column. Such wheels are recommended for scooters with a built-in shock absorption system.

The maximum height to which the height-adjustable handlebar can be set (or just the height of the handlebar in the working position, if height adjustment is not provided).

The height of the handlebars should be such that the rider can stand on the deck straight, without bending his back, and hold on to the handles with slightly bent arms. At the same time, there is no unambiguous relationship between this parameter and the height of the rider. So the perfect option to determine the optimal height is to try it yourself, and then choose a scooter based on the result.