Snow height
The maximum thickness of the snow layer that the snow blower removes in one pass. If you plan to regularly remove snow as it falls in a small area (for example, in the courtyard of your own private house), a grip height of up to 20 cm will be enough. If the opportunity to remove snow is rare (for example, in a country house where you visit only on weekends), you should pay attention to more powerful models with a height of about 50 cm.
Min. throw distance
The shortest distance that the snow blower can throw the collected snow.
The minimum range is indicated only for models with adjustable throw distance (see above). The meaning of this parameter is that in fact, long-range snow casting is not always desirable. For example, when clearing a path in the yard of a private house, snow often has to be poured literally next to the path, a little further — and it will fly onto the windows and walls of the house.
Note that the ejection range is a rather conditional value, because. snow (especially loose, freshly fallen snow) tends to dissipate in flight.
Number of gears
The number of gears in the transmission of a self-propelled snow blower (see "Design"), in fact — the number of speeds at which it can move during operation.
Recall that upshifting increases speed and reduces torque. Thus, high gears are convenient for working with loose snow, which does not give strong resistance, while low gears allow you to cope with dense snow and crust. And the greater the number of gears, other things being equal, the more accurately you can choose the optimal speed. On the other hand, the abundance of settings complicates and increases the cost of the transmission. Therefore, when choosing the number of gears, manufacturers also take into account the overall level of the snow blower: the more powerful and heavier the unit, the more settings it usually provides.
A separate case are units with continuously variable (including hydrostatic) transmissions. They do not have fixed gears, and the gear ratio is automatically adjusted depending on the throttle position and the load on the working nozzle. One of the advantages of such systems is the almost zero probability of slipping, because. the wheels keep the torque at all times. In addition, the transmission itself can play the role of overload protection: when the auger is jammed, it disconnects it from the engine. On the other hand, stepless systems are quite complex and expensive, and automation does not always work exactly the way the user wants; therefore, this option is relatively rare.
Transmission
the "gearbox" is responsible for selecting the speed of the snow blower. The ability to move in a wide range of speeds will come in handy to reduce fuel consumption, increase the efficiency of clearing the territory from snow and improve the manoeuvrability of equipment when working in hard-to-reach places. Usually, modern snow blowers provide up to 6 speeds for moving forward and 1 – 2 reverse gears.
— Mechanical. Mechanical step transmission means manual switching of speeds from the operator's control panel. This type of gearbox is installed on the vast majority of snowplows. In order to avoid premature failure of the transmission on the “mechanics”, the gears should be switched sequentially after the equipment has completely stopped.
- hydrostatic. An analogue of the variator in cars. Allows you to smoothly switch the speed of the snow blower through the use of hydraulic oil. The gear change is stepless, when switching gears, the equipment does not need to be stopped. The continuously variable hydraulic transmission makes the snow blower extremely easy to move.
- Friction disc. The friction disc ensures the synchronous operation of the snowplow wheels. Structurally, this assembly resembles a disk-shaped part with a rubber seal put on it. The unit maintains the simultaneous rotation of the standard snow blower wheels at the speed that was set by the operator using the gear lever.
Motor type
Model of the engine installed in the snow blower.
With this information, you can find detailed data on the engine — from official specifications to reviews, reviews and advice on specific nuances. In this way, you can evaluate how a snow blower with this particular engine will suit your needs.
Engine size
The size of the engine installed in a gasoline or diesel (see "Engine type") snow blower. With the same type of internal combustion engine (see above), more displacement usually means more power and more fuel consumption.
Motor power
Snowblower motor power in horsepower.
The universal unit of power today is watts, but for petrol and diesel engines (see "Motor type"), the traditional designation in horsepower may also be given. 1 HP approximately equal to 735 watts.
The higher the motor power, the higher the performance of the snow blower, the better it handles with high dense snowdrifts and icy crust. However, more powerful engines consume more fuel, weigh more and cost more, and their use is not always justified. Detailed recommendations on choosing the optimal power for a specific situation can be found in special sources.
Motor power
Snowblower motor power in watts. This designation is used for all electric models; for units with an internal combustion engine (see "Motor type"), the designation in horsepower may also be given (see above).
The higher the motor power, the higher the snowblower's flow rate, the better it copes with high dense snowdrifts and icy crust. However, more powerful engines consume more fuel, weigh more and cost more, and their use is not always justified. Detailed recommendations on choosing the optimal power for a specific situation can be found in special sources.
Noise level
The average noise level produced by the snow blower during operation; the actual volume may differ slightly from this figure, but these deviations are usually negligible.
Note that snow blowers are quite loud equipment, plus the higher the power, the generally higher the noise level. This parameter is measured in decibels, this is a non-linear value, so the actual loudness is easiest to evaluate using comparative tables. So, the most "quiet" modern models give out about 55 – 60 dB — this can be compared with a conversation in slightly raised tones. 70 dB corresponds to a loud conversation, 80 dB to noise on a busy city street, 90 dB to a freight car at a distance of about 7 m, 100 dB to an industrial workshop, 110 dB to a tractor motor at a distance of 1 m.
The lower the noise level, the more comfortable this model will be to use. And according to sanitary standards, the maximum noise level considered safe for prolonged exposure (up to 8 hours) is 80 dB. So if the selected unit is noisier, and you plan to work often and for a long time, you should take care of protective headphones or earplugs.
