Comparison Blauberg Quatro Hi-tech 125 SH vs Electrolux Magic EAFM-150T

Mounting diameter refers to the size of the space required for the normal installation of the fan. Some manufacturers indicate in this paragraph which standard pipe the unit is designed for (for example, 100 mm or 125 mm), others give the dimensions of the body or extraction pipe (for wall models) — that is, the part placed directly into the duct. Anyway, knowing the mounting diameter, you can evaluate how the fan fits the intended installation site.

The type of bearing installed in the fan.

The bearing is a part that secures the rotating part of the fan to the stationary part and reduces friction between these parts. By type, it can be as follows:

— Plain bearing. The action of such bearings is based on the friction between two conjugated, that is, directly pressed one to the other over the entire area, surfaces. However, these surfaces are in contact with each other relatively weakly — between them is a layer of lubricant that reduces friction. In addition, to reduce resistance, rubbing parts are usually carefully polished and made of anti-friction materials. The main advantage of plain bearings is the simplicity of design and the resulting low cost. However, such parts are less durable than ball bearings, and they create more noise.

— Ball bearing. The principle of operation of a ball bearing is that a set of balls is placed between its movable and stationary parts, which roll inside during movement. Compared to plain bearings, such bearings last much longer, and they create less noise during operation. On the other hand, fans with similar equipment are noticeably more expensive.

This parameter describes the amount of air that the fan can pass through itself per hour when operating in extraction mode (see "Type"). It is one of the key characteristics of any extractor fan — it characterizes the overall performance and suitability of the unit for a particular room.

When choosing a fan for maximum performance, two main indicators must be taken into account — the volume of the room and the air flow rate. The volume can be found by multiplying the area of the room by the height of the ceilings: for example, for a room of 12 m² in a residential apartment with standard ceilings of 2.5 m, this figure will be 12x2.5=30 m³. The air flow rate describes how many times per hour the air in an enclosed space must be completely replaced for ventilation to be sufficiently effective. This multiplicity is different for different types of premises: in particular, for the kitchen, it is 6-8, for the bathroom — 8-10, etc. More detailed values be found in specialized sources, in particular, sanitary standards. And the minimum required fan performance is calculated by multiplying the air volume by the air exchange rate. For example, if we have a bathroom with an area of 4 m² with the same ceiling of 2.5 m, then the volume of air in it will be 4x2=10 m³; Considering that the minimum air exchange rate for bathrooms is 7, for this room we need a fan with a capacity of at least 70 m³/h.

The nominal fan speed during operation.

The rotational speed is one of the factors affecting the performance and, consequently, the overall efficiency of the fan. At the same time, this factor is far from being the only one. A lot also depends on the design of the blades, their number, the diameter of the impeller, etc. Therefore, fans with the same speed can differ significantly in capabilities, and you should pay attention primarily to performance.

At the same time, the rotation speed still has a certain practical significance. On the one hand, faster fans produce more noise; this drawback can be compensated to a certain extent by design tricks, but they, in turn, noticeably affect the price. On the other hand, to ensure the desired level of performance, lower-speed fans must either have impellers of a larger diameter (which accordingly affects the dimensions, and in most cases, the installation size) or, again, use design tweaks that affect the price.

The power consumed by the fan during normal operation.

This parameter primarily affects the power consumption of the device and the load on the power grid created during its operation. However, the latter is usually not critical, since the power of most modern fans is low. Also, the more powerful the device, the higher its performance(see above). However, there is no unambiguous dependence here — much is determined by how effective the design is. Therefore, models with the same performance can differ markedly in power consumption.

When choosing between two similar models with different power consumption, you should proceed with how often and for how long you plan to turn on the fan. If regular work is expected for a long time — for example, to ventilate the kitchen while cooking — you should pay attention to a less powerful model. It may cost more, but the price difference can quickly pay off in energy savings. If the fan turns on occasionally (for example, when installed in the bathroom of a residential apartment), you can not pay much attention to the power consumption.

- Pull cord switch. Pull cord switches, as the name suggests, operate using a cord pulling which turns the fan on/off. Such a switch is especially convenient in cases where the fan itself is installed high and it is difficult to reach its housing. In addition, it has another advantage common to all built-in switches - ease of connection: you do not have to mount a separate switch in the wall (or link the ventilation to the lighting), just connect the power to the fan. These models are recommended primarily in cases where the extractor fan is planned to be turned on quite often, but for a short time - for example, for installation in an ordinary home kitchen.

- Non-return valve / shutters. The presence of a valve in the design of the fan or a system of automatic shutters. These types of equipment are combined into one item because they have the same purpose: to prevent the movement of air in the opposite direction — into the room — when the extractor fan is turned off. It allows, for example, to avoid unpleasant odours from entering the kitchen from the bathroom located behind the wall, using the same ventilation duct. The non-return valve is a characteristic "petal" that closes when air moves in the "wrong" direction. Automatic shutters open when the fan is turned on and close when it is turned off; they are considered a more advanced option, however, and cost accordingly.

- Built-in clock. The clock in such models is installed directly on the extractor fan cover. Thus, the unit also plays the role of an ordinary wall clock. Such devices are designed for situations where the air duct opening is in a prominent place and it is undesirable to install a conventional cover there from a design point of view — they not only allow you to find out the time but also look quite aesthetically pleasing. Also, with the proper degree of moisture protection (see below), clock fans can be useful for the bathroom — especially for those who tend to stay in the shower or bath for a long time. But in other cases, it is easier to buy the clock and the fan separately.

- Timer. The presence of a shutdown timer in the design of the fan. This feature, as a rule, is implemented as follows: after the shutdown command, the fan continues to work for some time and turns off only after the time for which the timer is set has passed (most often, the adjustment range is from 2 to 30 minutes). Thanks to this, you can safely leave the room that needs to be ventilated (for example, from the bathroom after a shower): you do not have to keep track of the time and return to the fan to turn it off, this will be done automatically.

- Delayed start. The way this function works is described in the name itself: when it is used, the fan starts working some time after the switch-on command (usually this time is short — up to 2 minutes). The meaning of the delay is that the fan does not start immediately, but when the need for it becomes relevant. An example is a fan installed in the bathroom and tied to a light switch: in the first two minutes after entering the bathroom, the humidity is unlikely to rise much, and there is simply no need to start the hood, but with a longer stay it may be needed.

- Humidity sensor. The presence of a humidity sensor in the design of the fan. This function is useful primarily in cases where the fan is used to remove excess moisture from the air — for example, in bathrooms. The sensor can provide both automatic switching on of the device with a significant increase in the amount of moisture in the air, and switching it off when the humidity decreases. In the latter case, it works similarly to the timer described above. However, it is more efficient, since the shutdown does not depend on time, but on reaching the desired conditions in the room. Specific features of this function in different models may vary.

- Motion sensor. The presence of a motion sensor in the design of the fan. Such a sensor provides additional automation of on/off: it automatically starts the fan when people appear in the room. The shutdown can be carried out both by a combination of a sensor and a timer — with some delay after the movement in the room has stopped — and by a manual command from the user. The specifics of how this function works in different models may be different.

- Light sensor. The light sensor provides additional automation for turning on/off the extractor fan. In particular, it automatically starts ventilation when the light is turned on in the room. Switching off can be carried out by a combination of a sensor and a timer — after the light is turned off, the fan continues to work for some time and turns off only after the time period for which the timer is set has passed.

- Temperature sensor. This feature can be used in two main ways. The first one is similar to how the humidity sensor described above works: the device monitors the temperature in the room and, if necessary, turns on the fan, and turns it off when the need disappears. The second option is to work as a security system: if the supply air temperature is too low or too high, the sensor turns off the fan, protecting the device from damage due to abnormal operation. This option is especially relevant for models with air supply capabilities (see "Type").

- Backlight. The presence in the design of the fan LED-backlight, activated in conjunction with the inclusion of ventilation. The lighting system allows you to gently designate the product, and emphasize the colour of the cover and the texture of the material. In addition, the backlight looks stylish in low light or off.

The above list is not exhaustive, and other additional features may be provided in the design.

The noise level reproduced by the fan in normal operation.

The lower the noise level, the more comfortable the use of the fan will be, the better it is suitable for rooms in which it is desirable to keep silence. In addition, there are certain regulations written in sanitary standards (for example, for residential premises during the day, a constant noise level of up to 40 dB is considered acceptable, and at night — up to 30 dB).

When choosing according to specific values recorded in the characteristics, it should be taken into account that the decibel used to measure the noise level is not a linear quantity: for example, an increase in sound power by 2 times corresponds to an increase of 3 dB, 10 times — by 10 dB, 100 times — by 20 dB. Therefore, to assess the noise level, it is easiest to refer to comparative tables, where the correspondence of specific values in decibels to various real sound sources is recorded. In most modern fans, noise is between 20 and 60 dB, here is the simplest table for this range:

20 – 25 dB — a weak audible sound, comparable to a whisper at a distance of 1 – 2 m;
25 – 30 dB — intelligible whisper at a short distance, ticking of a wall clock;
35 dB — muffled conversation;
40 – 45 dB — normal human speech;
50 – 55 dB — talking in raised tones, noise in the office;
60 dB — loud conversation at a distance of several metres.

Note that patter...ns over 50 dB are rare; usually, these are “industrial” class units with a 400 V power supply and a large mounting diameter (see above), not intended for residential premises.

The level of protection of the fan housing (more precisely, sensitive parts located in the housing) from dust and moisture, measured by the IP standard. This standard assumes marking in the form of two numbers after the letters IP — for example, IP54. In this case, the first digit describes the level of protection against dust and other objects, and the second — from moisture.

In terms of resistance to the penetration of foreign objects in fans, the following values \u200b\u200bcan be found:

2 — protection against objects larger than 12.5 mm (enough to protect against adult fingers);
3 — from objects larger than 2.5 mm;
4 — from objects more than 1 mm (not every wire can get inside);
5 — full protection against objects; a small amount of dust may have entered the unit without any noticeable effect on performance.

In terms of water protection, options can be as follows:

4 — resistance to water splashes from any direction;
5 — resistance to water jets from any direction;
7 — the ability to endure short-term immersion in water to a depth of 1 m without consequences.

There are also higher rates of water protection. However, it does not make sense to provide them to fans. The mentioned "4" and "5" are quite sufficient for installation in bathrooms, showers and most other places where there is...a possibility of moisture getting on the units, higher levels of protection complicate and increase the cost of the design, and there is very little practical need for them.

In some models, instead of one digit (most often the first one), there may be the letter X. This does not mean the absence of appropriate protection — it most often exists, and sometimes its degree can be quite high; we are only talking about the fact that official testing according to the IP standard was not carried out. For example, a fan marked IPX4 can be closed even from a thin wire, but if it passed official tests only for moisture resistance, the manufacturer has the right to indicate only one digit.

It is also worth noting that the complete absence of IP marking does not mean a lack of protection. However, if resistance to dust and moisture is crucial for you, you should still choose among models where this feature is officially claimed by the manufacturer.

The country specified as the manufacturer of the fan. Note that in most cases, this paragraph indicates the country of origin of the brand under which the unit was released. This country may not coincide with the place of production of individual components, or even with the final assembly place, and often such information is just a marketing ploy that plays on national stereotypes — for example, many consider German technology to be more reliable than Chinese. At the same time, these stereotypes are gradually losing relevance — in particular, due to the transfer of production mentioned above; and it makes sense when choosing to focus on reviews of real customers and the reputation of a particular brand, rather than on its national identity.

Now the following producing countries are represented on the market: Germany, Spain, Italy, China, Latvia, Lithuania, Norway, Poland, Sweden.