Comparison SMOK Novo 2 Pod vs Nolimit BRO Pod Kit

The volume of the liquid tank provided in the design of the atomizer. Note that this parameter can be specified even for squonk atomizers (see "Filling type"): although they work with an external tank, however, a certain amount of "liquid" can fit in the evaporator itself.

The larger the tank, the more liquid you can keep in an electronic cigarette and the less often you have to refill it. On the other hand, capacious tanks have the appropriate dimensions, and too large a tank would be inconvenient, and liquids are consumed relatively little even in one long session of soaring. As a result, a volume of more than 6 mL is already considered quite large for vapes, and in the smallest models this figure does not exceed 2 mL.

Also note that when choosing a tank capacity, manufacturers usually take into account the resistance of the spiral, the power of the battery (if it is included) and other parameters that affect the expected flow rate of the liquid. There is no hard dependency here, however, in general, more powerful atomizers are usually equipped with larger tanks.

— Upper. The traditional type of filling was initially quite popular, but now such atomizers are gradually giving way to bottom filling models. The main advantage of this option is the ability to pour liquid without turning the atomizer over and without removing the flask from the battery mod. However refilling usually requires disassembly — for example, unscrewing the cap with the mouthpiece.

— Lower. This option assumes that for refueling, you need to turn the atomizer upside down and pour liquid from the bottom side. At first glance, this procedure is less convenient than top filling, but it provides an important advantage for serviced heaters: if necessary, you can remove and rewind the base without draining the liquid from the tank. Note that squonk format drip atomizers are formally also refueled from below, however, they have their own specifics, therefore they do not belong to this category and are allocated separately; see below for details.

— Side. Refueling through a special hole in the side of the atomizer. Like the top one, this design allows you not to remove the flask from the battery mod; the opening usually opens and closes easily and quickly, without the need, for example, to unscrew the cap. This option is quite popular in baco drips (see "Type of atomizer"), althou...gh it is also found in other varieties.

— Squonk. A specific type of bottom filling used in models with drip atomizers (see "Type of atomizer"). These vapes have a rather large e-liquid reservoir installed in the battery mod, and each time you press a special button (or the elastic wall of the reservoir), the liquid is fed into the atomizer in small portions directly through the connector. This design eliminates the main drawback of drip atomizers — the need to constantly add liquid manually, "drop by drop": instead of the hassle of manual refueling, it is enough to periodically press the button. At the same time, most of these evaporators allow installation on a regular battery mod, without a squonk — for this, the kit provides a replaceable connector of a standard design, without a channel for supplying liquid; and on battery mods with a squonk, usually, you can put ordinary atomizers without restrictions. The disadvantages of this option can be somewhat higher cost than analogues with traditional types of refueling.

The type of blowing provided in the atomizer of an electronic cigarette.

This parameter is indicated by the location of the cells for the intake of air entering the evaporator. According to this criterion, lower, upper and side airflow are distinguished, here are their main features:

— Lower. The most popular option nowadays. Such popularity is primarily due to the fact that many vapers consider the “lower” vapor to be the most delicious. In addition, bottom blown atomizers are easier to maintain than "side" models, they are not so demanding on winding quality. The disadvantages of this option include an increased likelihood of leakage, including during liquid overflow; and the condensate, which is quite intensively formed at the air intakes, tends to flow down onto the battery mod. However, these points are not particularly critical.

— Upper. A format that has appeared relatively recently. In general, such an airflow conveys taste somewhat worse than the lower one, moreover, the steam turns out to be hotter; however, this point is largely subjective, and some users like this type of steam. The objective advantages of the “upper” atomizers include the minimum probability of overflow, the almost complete absence of condensate flowing onto the battery mod, and the absence of splashes even when using coils with very low resistance.

— Si...de. The type of blowing used mainly in "drips" (see "Type of atomizer"). If the bottom airflow gives the most delicious steam, then the side airflow is the most dense and saturated. This is achieved due to the fact that the air flows around the spiral as intensively as possible and captures the greatest amount of evaporation. In addition, the likelihood of liquid overflow and splash formation in such atomizers is very small, and with the right settings, the taste is transmitted almost as well as in the “lower” models. The main disadvantage of this option is the actual need for careful tuning and proper installation of the spiral — so that there are no blind spots on it. So side airflow is generally designed for experienced users; maintenance-free atomizers are an exception, but this format of operation is rarely used in them.

Also note that there are combined options for sale, for which two types of airflow are indicated at once. Here the specifics can be different. So, it is unrealistic to combine the upper and lower airflow in one evaporator, therefore this option is indicated only for sets of several atomizers with different types of airflow. But the side format of work may well be combined with the top or bottom — this allows you to combine the advantages of both options and provide saturated steam. On the other hand, the need for careful tuning for such devices is just as relevant as for "pure" side ones.

The battery capacity of an e-cigarette or separately sold battery mod. This parameter is indicated only for models with non-removable batteries (see "Battery type"): replaceable cells can be produced in different capacities.

The larger the battery, the longer you can use the device without recharging the battery. However the actual power consumption and, accordingly, the battery life of different models will be different, therefore, only devices with similar operating voltages and atomizer resistances can be compared in terms of capacity.

In general, if battery life is important to you, it is quite possible to proceed from the principle “the more capacious the battery, the better”; and to save money, you can choose a relatively weak battery. It is also worth mentioning that there are schemes for calculating the optimal battery capacity depending on the power, atomizer resistance, etc.; these schemes can be found in special sources.

The maximum power supplied by the battery.

This is one of the main parameters of the battery pack that determines its compatibility with the atomizer. Starter kits (see "Type"), by definition, include atomizers that are optimally suited to a given battery in terms of power, and this parameter is mainly of reference value. But when choosing components separately, you should pay special attention to it. Higher power allows you to achieve more saturated steam, but only up to certain limits — too much heating leads to a deterioration in taste, and even burning of the wick (which, all the more, does not contribute to improving the sensation of soaring). So the atomizer must normally transfer the power of the battery, otherwise, at best, you will have to constantly limit the power with the help of a varivolt or variwatt (see "Battery mod"), and at worst, normal use will be impossible at all.

Note that for classic evaporator tanks with one spiral, power up to 40 W is considered sufficient; more powerful batteries are designed mainly for advanced serviced models, drip atomizers and bacodrips(see "Type of atomizer") that have more than one coil and, accordingly, are more high consumption in terms of energy consumption. Also note that the actual heating power depends on the voltage, and in fact it may be lower than the claimed one, depending on the resistance of the atomizer. See “Maximum voltage".

The lowest voltage that the battery mod can supply to the atomizer.

The meaning of this parameter depends on the type of battery mod and the functions of the board (see above). So, in mechanical and simple electronic modes, the smallest value to which the battery voltage can drop before it turns off and requires charging is usually indicated here. Knowing this parameter, as well as the resistance of the atomizer, you can calculate the minimum guaranteed vaping power.

If we are talking about a mod with adjustments like varivolt or variwatt, then the minimum voltage is also the lowest voltage that can be set manually in the settings. This may be necessary to reduce the power and, accordingly, the intensity of soaring — for example, if the gas station has a very rich taste, and abundant dense steam would be overkill. In adjustable battery packs, the lower the minimum voltage (with the same maximum voltage), the wider the adjustment range, the more options the vaper has to adjust the vaping parameters. See “Maximum voltage".

The highest voltage that the battery mod can supply to the atomizer.

Knowing the minimum (see above) and maximum voltage, it is possible to estimate the heating power that the battery is able to provide at a certain resistance of the atomizer. For example, if we have a battery mod with a voltage range of 3.3 – 4.8 V and an atomizer with a 1.8 Ohm coil, then the current strength at the minimum voltage will be 3.3 / 1.8 ≈ 1.8 A, and at maximum 4.8 / 1.8 ≈ 2.7 A. Accordingly, the smallest heating power will be 3.3 * 1.8 ≈ 6 W, and the largest 4.8 * 2.7 ≈ 13 W. In this case, the nominal power of the battery can be higher, but not vice versa — the actual power cannot be more than the nominal. Let's say, theoretically, the battery from our example, combined with a 0.15 Ohm sub-ohm atomizer, even at the minimum voltage, should produce a current of 3.3 / 0.15 = 22 A and a power of 3.3 * 22 = 72.6 W. However, if a power of 50 W is claimed in the characteristics, then higher values \u200b\u200bare impossible to achieve, even if you unscrew the regulator to the maximum — at low resistances, the voltage at the battery output drops sharply.